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  1. #1

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    How to achieve finer grain with TMAX 100?

    Pretty much what the subject says. I shoot 120 TMAX 100 with very nice results so far but I believe that this film is capable of finer grain with the proper treatment.

    Only limitation from my side Is that It has to be done using HC-110 since I have a lot left and I do not plan on throwing it away.

    My current workflow:

    Solution B 1+31
    6 minutes developing at 20c
    30 seconds initial inversions (about 12)
    10 seconds inv. every minute (about 4)

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2

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    Please post a few examples of how it is currently behaving. I don't shoot much TMAX 100, but when I do it's very fine grained, especially in 120.

  3. #3
    chriscrawfordphoto's Avatar
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    Proper treatment means using the right developer, and HC-110 isn't it.
    Chris Crawford
    Fine Art Photography of Indiana and other places no one else photographs.

    http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com

    My Tested Developing Times with the films and developers I use

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    Fort Wayne, Indiana

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by chriscrawfordphoto View Post
    Proper treatment means using the right developer, and HC-110 isn't it.
    Thanks, care to elaborate?

  5. #5

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    My experience with HC-110 (20 years of it) was that it tended to produce a mushy grain.

    Bear in mind also that although T-Max films are very fine-grained, they tend not to produce extremely sharp-looking images in my experience. I found that using Rodinal or a Pyrogallol or Pyrocatechin developer (PMK or Pyrocat-HD or Pyrocat-MC) gave a sharper-looking result.

    If you want finer grain, try D-76 or X-Tol.

    Personally, I never found T-Max 100 in 120 to give me any perceptible grain in moderate enlargements, say to 10x10".

  6. #6
    Hatchetman's Avatar
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    T-Max developer gives finer grain than D-76. That much I do know.

  7. #7
    Kyle M.'s Avatar
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    I use Rodinal 1+25 or 1+50 with T-Max 100 in 120, I get very very fine grain and the sharpest images I've personally ever gotten.
    Last edited by Kyle M.; 08-27-2014 at 10:50 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Nikon F, Nikkor-S 35mm F=2.8
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  8. #8
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    I really suspect that you get a course grain with ISO 100 film in 120...
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
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    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  9. #9

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    Good Morning Hoakin,

    Back in the dim, dark, distant past, I believe that I did process T-100 in HC-110B. I think that my approach was almost identical to yours, except my vague recollection is that my developing time was around 5 minutes. I don't recall having any issues with the quality of the negatives. The results were such an improvement on anything I could get with Tri-X and Plus-X that I know I was very happy.

    Later, I began to use T-Max developer (1:7 for about 10 minutes for "normal" development) and standardized on that. If T-Max developer disappeared and I had only HC-110 to use, I don't think I'd be unduly bothered.

    Konical

  10. #10
    Axle's Avatar
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    I've gotten the best results out of my Tmax 100 using: Rodinal, Xtol, or the TMax developer (1+9 or 1+4)
    Canadian Correspondent for the Film Photography Podcast
    A bi-monthly podcast for people who love to shoot film!

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