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  1. #21

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    I use BW2 from "Photographers Formulary". BW2 is formulated for use with T-grain films. I am very satisfied with the results. Contrast can be controlled with development time variation.

  2. #22
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewH
    Ouch, that is a LOT of fix.
    That's nuthin'. I fix TMY for at least 15 minutes, sometimes 20.

  3. #23

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    As for the fixing, I find that soaking the film after fixing (rather than using shorter cysles of wash with lots of agitation, helps to clear modern films much better allowing a shorter fix time of 5-7 mins. This diffusion method works really nicely after a few good wash cyles in the tank to give a thorough rinse. You can also walk off and watch TV, coming back every few minutes for a quick agitiate.

    A while back I commented on Peter Hogan's assertion that even a little too much fixing can bleach negs. I do not agree with this and this view appears to be backed up by Frances Schults's article in the latest B&W photographer, "...fixing must be 10 or 20 times the minimum fix time before you start to lose image silver..". I dont know whether this is guesswork or based on some form of testing. I will get around to testing this one day to be sure, but certaily I have abused film in fix (and paper) and never seen anything detrimental. Just my opinion.....

    Tom

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck94022
    Traditionally I've been processing B&W film in my Jobo. I've always had great results, but would like better agitation control. I recently decided to learn to use my simpler Patterson tank. I decided to play with a test roll of TMax 120.
    I am curious - if you have always had great results in your Jobo, why change? IMHO Jobo's agitation is about as controlled as you are going to get.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbarker
    Don't you use Rodinal as an after-shave?
    Yes, I do...of course!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaughn
    I am curious - if you have always had great results in your Jobo, why change? IMHO Jobo's agitation is about as controlled as you are going to get.
    Jobo's agitation is full agitation. It's agitation is extremely consistent, but it can't be "turned off". My goal is to be able to use, for example, highly dilute rodinal, and do, for example, stand development. That's not possible with the Jobo.

    When I say I've had great results, I have - but within the constraints of the Jobo. I love the consistency with E6, for example. But I am beginning to understand the lack of control (perhaps I should say lack of optimization techniques) I have with B&W development in the Jobo.

    -chuck
    Last edited by chuck94022; 04-03-2005 at 10:31 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #27

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    I think I understand. Are you proposing this technique for normal development or is this to help you with high contrast situations?

  8. #28

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    If you want a complete control of your inversion development, specially with developers like: Rodinal, Tanol, AM50, CG512 and there are some more, I can only recommend the Heiland TAS processor. Tanks from Jobo 1500/2500, Kindermann, Paterson can be used in that automated inversion system.

    Also the longer developing times are not boring anymore. The system is also compensating in time the temperature deviation.

    Further Rodinal is more or less a better choice for classical lower speed films. Same like AM50.
    But the choice of a film/developer combination is more or less a personal preference.

    Best regards,

    Robert

    http://www.FotohuisRoVo.nl
    http://www.heilandelectronic.de

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