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  1. #1
    Graham Hansford's Avatar
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    Developer for Kodak TRI-X - 400TX

    I wonder if anyone can help me.

    Being perhaps stuck in my ways (and on the grounds "if it isn't broke don't fix it" philosophy) I usually use Ilford films and Ilford LC29 developer at 1+19. This has always worked very well for me.

    I was recently given a roll of Kodak TRI-X 400 (400TX) film - have exposed it and am looking for some useful development data. Kodak obvioulsy only quote times for Kodak developers. The Massive Dev Chart lists it with LC29 at 6.5 minutes but it has a note - this is for a JOBO processing drum (I take this as with continuous agitation).

    Should I use this time - or does anybody have any experience with this film and Ilford developers or should I be looking for a different developer.

    I hope somebody can help as I think I have some good frames to work with on this roll.

  2. #2
    Jeffrey A. Steinberg's Avatar
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    I use 5:30 seconds at 24 degrees celcius with a Jobo with constant agitation. My jobo does B&W at 24 degrees.
    --Jeffrey

    ______________________________________________
    Jeffrey Steinberg, K2MIT
    Scarsdale, NY

    www.jsteinbergphoto.com (my avocation)
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  3. #3

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    For only one roll go with what you've got. But Tri-X and HP5 acts very lovely in Rodinal 1+50 (crispy grain!)

    Morten

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdef
    investing in another developer for a single roll of film, when you already have a developer that you're happy with, strikes me as counterproductive. You're far more likely, I think, to get close to optimum results using a developer with which you are familiar, than by trying a new developer, with a new film, and depending on the recommendations of others for development time. I would bet that simply using your time for HP5+ in your LC29 for your roll of TX will produce good, printable negatives. In fact, Ilford's recommended development time for TX 400 in LC29 1+19, is 6 1/2 min., just like HP5+. I recommend that you simply pretend that your TX is HP5+, and procede accordingly. Good luck.

    Jay

    I'm with Jay here. You can dev. Tri-X in just about anything, that's one of its strengths, but it takes a few rolls to get to know a film/dev. combo to see what it can and cannot do for you. One roll isn't going to tell you much.

  5. #5
    Graham Hansford's Avatar
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    Thanks everybody for putting my mind at rest - I had wondered about going straight for the 6.5 minutes - thought it couldn't be a million miles away. Will give it a try and hopefully post something on the gallery.

    Graham

  6. #6
    fhovie's Avatar
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    4 teaspoons of instant coffee and 2 teaspoons of washing soda in 8oz of water at 68F for 20 minutes - (for tri-x) I haven't tried it but I thought it was interesting.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  7. #7
    gma
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    I have always liked Tri-X developed in Microdol X 1:3. Fine grain and good sharpness. Reduce speed to 250-320 if you use the diluted developer.
    [FONT=Century Gothic][/FONT][SIZE=7][/SIZE][COLOR=DarkOrange][/COLOR] I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by fhovie
    4 teaspoons of instant coffee and 2 teaspoons of washing soda in 8oz of water at 68F for 20 minutes - (for tri-x) I haven't tried it but I thought it was interesting.
    I have tried it...It went wrong! Said in another way...It needs practice and a lot of trial and error. But great that instant coffee can be used for something good

  9. #9

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    I like to shoot 120 Tri-X at an EI of 1000 and develop in Acufine.. Otherwise it's either PMK or Rodinal.. I love Tri-X!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by modafoto
    I have tried it...It went wrong! Said in another way...It needs practice and a lot of trial and error. But great that instant coffee can be used for something good
    I agree ... finally a good use for instand coffee - I use a percolator here - Real coffee is a little chewy!
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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