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  1. #11

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    J+C MUseum Paper

    Alan -that paper is most likely FortePolywarmtone Plus. A great paper.
    Regards, Peter

  2. #12

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    PWT is a paper where I struggle not to get depth and glow. It seems to take no effort at all compared to some papers. I recently started a portfolio of images of my kids. Negs were HP5 plus, dev'd in aculux 2 and printed on PWT. It was ridiculously easy. I probably used about 10 sheets for 6 different images, each one just seemed to print itself.

  3. #13
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    Ansco 135

    Hi Alan. The Ansco 135 is the simplest of MQ formulae. I've just posted mine at the "Chemistry Recipes" page right here at APUG. I usually consider it a one timer. Use and pitch. Especially in the quantities I make. A dozen 11X14's would exhaust it. It's incredibly cost effective. Also, I'm sure the good folk at J&C would tell you exactly which paper to get to duplicate theirs if they don't ship to the UK.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  4. #14
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanC
    Any ideas where I can get J&C Museum paper and Ansco135 developer in the U.K?
    I already have the selenium toner!
    Alan Clark
    J&C Museum is not Classic (Forte) Polywarmtone but is a similar Graded paper on a 360gm base as opposed to the 240gm Polywarmtone. Try www.fotoimpex.co.uk or www.fotoimpex.de

    For Agfa 135 (aka Ansco 135) it's very similar indeed to Agfa's old powder Neutol WA, the liquid form is available here in the UK.

  5. #15

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    Many thanks for your very quick replies.

    Alan Clark

  6. #16

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    Handmade amidol developer. I'll try to send you a recipe.

  7. #17
    roy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Stanworth
    I printed a series of identical images with two different devs (Neutol WA and bromophen
    I think that Bromophen is the powdered form of PQ Universal.
    Roy Groombridge.

    Cogito, ergo sum.
    (Descartes)

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Budd
    Hello all

    I am currently using Polymax Fine Art and used some in a session the other evening with some Ilford PQ universal. I found it to give a very neutral image tone and was looking for a more 'deep' richer tone to my prints.

    I was wondering if PQ was as a good as it will get with Polymax FA or if there is such a developer to bring out richer tones.

    Maybe the paper is just a bit too cold for me.

    Apologies if this thread appears a bit pointless.

    Many thanks all.
    Tim, You are already quite close to your goal, in that Polymax Fine Art can give an extraordinary rich blacks. Your only job is to find which of the following 3 developers works best for you in combination with KRST Selenium toning at 1:9 for 3 min at 68 F. In order of increasing blacks they are:
    Dektol 1:2 3 min
    Edwal UltraBlack 1:9 3 min.
    Amidol (Weston's) 2 min.

    To minimize the hassle factor and to eliminate shipping of liquids over international borders, I would favor Dektol.
    I see no need on your part for a lifetime crusade for a holy grail. Polymax in Dektol will give you the most crisp, neutral results. Get that combo right, then experiment with other shades at your leisure.

  9. #19

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    I don't use many different paper developers, but I do prefer Dektol over Bromophen. The way I see it, Bromophen is a PQ developer as opposed to Dektol which is an MQ formulation. Bromophen also contains benzotriazole, an anti-fogging agent that costs me about 1/2 stop of paper speed and giving no chance of getting slightly warmer tones at higher dilutions, which is something you can do with some papers in Dektol. One fellow I know likes Bromophen because he's concerned about the possibility of dermatitis caused by contact with the metol in Dektol. I've been sticking my hands in Dektol for years and years without any problems aside from some dry skin, and that's only after I've spent a day in the darkroom with wet hands. The same thing happens when I wash the dishes by hand. Tongs? Rubber gloves? Bah!

    Kodak's Polymax and the latest version of Polycontrast papers do exceptionally well in Dektol. If you aren't getting good blacks with these papers in Dektol, I'd start looking elsewhere for the problem. Maybe your exposures are a bit on the short side, maybe you need add a bit of contrast with a higher filter number, or maybe you need a combination of the two. Selenium toning doesn't give much, if any, color change with the Kodak papers but will increase your Dmax a bit. The effect is subtle and it won't save an otherwise "ho-hum" print. But take two identical prints, treat one in selenium, then place them side by side and the toned print will have just that little exra bit of depth to it that makes all the difference.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by fschifano
    I don't use many different paper developers, but I do prefer Dektol over Bromophen. The way I see it, Bromophen is a PQ developer as opposed to Dektol which is an MQ formulation. Bromophen also contains benzotriazole,
    Dektol and Neutol WA are very similar developers and you'd be pushed to tell the differance, the original formulas essentially ony varied with slightly more KBr in the Agfa product, and a slight decrease in Sodiium Carbonate.

    Neutol WA has a far better shelf and dish life (the liquid version does not contain Metol) and is readily available in the UK whereas it's highly unusual to see Dektol although a few dedicated darkroom specialist suppliers stock it.

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