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  1. #11
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
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    Is FX-39 avaliable in your area? Its my standard developer for Agfapan 100. I'm not sure how it would work with the 400 variety, but its worth a try. Although, IMO it doesn't seem to work as well with Tri-X.
    RL Foley

  2. #12
    titrisol's Avatar
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    Rodinal will work for 400 films, but grain will be very apparent. Even though I like the look of TX in ROdinal.

    is D76 your only option?

    Can you get DDX, Xtol or something similar? Those should give you far better results regarding graininess and film speed.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nicole Boenig-McGrade
    Thanks everyone! When I developed TriX 400 recently in Rodinal at 1+50 with gentle agitation at box speed and instructions I have found the grain to become 'gluggy' rendering about 50% of the images useless. I'm wondering if this was 'pilot error'.

    I like to shoot TriX 400 and recently Agfapan 400 but am most importantly trying to get good contrast and tonal ranges allround. I'm getting a little disheartened lately as it's just not giving me what I'm after.
    Mama took my APX away.....

  3. #13
    Nicole's Avatar
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    Food for thought! Thanks. I do often have to push TriX to 800 in low light conditions - again increasing grain.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicole Boenig-McGrade
    Food for thought! Thanks. I do often have to push TriX to 800 in low light conditions - again increasing grain.
    I shoot Tri-X @200, 320, 400, 640, 800, 1000 and 1600 and dev them in Rodinal. Grain fetish?

  5. #15
    Flotsam's Avatar
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    Here's a post that I made a while back comparing my favorite solvent developer (FG7/Sodium Sulfite) with Rodinal.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/showthrea...hlight=rodinal
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  6. #16

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    Dear Nicole,

    Try Xtol. Detailed instructions concerning most films and processing methods are readily available online. When used full strength you get very fine grain with legitimate shadow improvement. The only problem with it is the minimum size (5l) and the storage. I keep it in separate 250ml bottles filled to the brim (about 280ml). I have kept it that way for a year without problem (during the days I was expeimenting with PMK Pyro). Do not try and store it in half filled bottles as it reacts quickly with air.

    Neal Wydra

  7. #17
    fhovie's Avatar
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    Hi Nicole - after many years of trying differnt combinations, for MF, and Tri-x I have settled on XTOL - It doesn't mush the grain and yet renders very fine grain - also with good accutance. It falls outside the realm of standard Metal/ HQ or Staining developers as the primary ingredient is a cousin of Vitamin C. Which is friendly to yourself and to your sewage system. You can make your own:
    MYTOL
    Distilled Water 750 ml
    Sodium Sulfite 60 g
    Sodium Metaborate 4 g
    Sodium Ascorbate 13 g (purchased as vitamin C)
    Phenidone 0.15 g
    Sodium Metabisulfite 3 g (same as sodium bisulfite)
    Distilled water to make 1000 ml

    All these chemicals are inexpensive and easily mailordered. I use it 1:1 and am very happy with the results. Rodinal is likely best used with very slow film unless you are going for golfball sized grain - Rodinal uses a chemical cousin of Amidol and if I were going to use this type of developer, I would use pyrocat HD. Finer grain, cheap and easy to make and there is a grain masking stain that lets you have smooth tones and accutance. - I use this for all my 4x5 negative but it works well in MF - Mytol will give you a little more enlargability.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  8. #18
    JohnArs's Avatar
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    Nicole try XTOL and look never back. In a german lab mag there was a test Xtol was the winner in sharpness and grain against the rest of the world.
    And if you are not belive me then I start the church of XTOL ;-)))

  9. #19
    SchwinnParamount's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnArs
    Nicole try XTOL and look never back. In a german lab mag there was a test Xtol was the winner in sharpness and grain against the rest of the world.
    And if you are not belive me then I start the church of XTOL ;-)))
    And I will be the first acolyte. I've used XTOL and Tri-X for a couple of years and LOVE IT. I wasn't excited about Tri-X until I developed it with XTOL. Now, I'd never use anything else in 400 speed b&w

  10. #20
    Charles Webb's Avatar
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    Wow, everybody sure jumped on this one with some interesting information.

    My faveroite developer for Tri 120 is D 76 1:1 @ 68 deg for 71/2 to 81/2 minutes depending on the exposure of the film with agitation five seconds each thirty seconds.

    With stainless Nikkor tanks and reels, I fill the tank with developer. In the dark load the film on the reel or reels (using a T hanger lift device with two reels or more) ease the reel and film into the developer filled tank and put the lid on. Timer has already started. turn on the room lights and pick up the tank and rotate it gently right and left for five seconds. Do the same agitation five seconds every thirty seconds for the duration of developement time. Nothing fancy, nothing extra to add but it will give you an excellent printable negative.

    Everybody has their favorite combinations, but they are just that, personal
    favorites no more. For the type of work you do D76 1;1 or straight for that matter is perfect for you. Pushing to 800 is possible, but quality definitely suffers. Especially in the shadow areas. The magic formulas and recommendations others have given are all workable and do a good job, I have used and will use many of them again, but D 76 is difficult to find fault with if you want top quality negatives and prints with out a lot of hassel. (not blad)

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