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  1. #11

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    I would recommend to anyone wanting a shortcut to the BTZS method to contact one of our sponsors, The View Camera Store, and purchase BTZS LITE and a Power Dial. I've never read the BTZS book but use the system or parts of the system and they seem to be working for me. I use the system to make long scale negatives for palladium.

  2. #12
    Zathras's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wm blunt
    Mike,
    You can use a spot meter with the BTZS system instead of incident meter and it works just fine. I use both but when possible I use the incident.
    [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=RoyalBlue]I will be using the incident method myself after I go through the calibration testing. I did a quick and dirty experiment with this system without making any attempt at calibration, and the results I obtained have convinced me that it shows great promise, once I get the all my variables under control for the film and paper that I want to use.

    I'm glad that I stuck it out when I was reading the book. It took a while before my feeble little brain figured what the concept is all about. It also helps quite a bit that I managed to get my hands on an ancient Mac that had the Plotter/Matcher program installed. This means no plotting curves by hand. Yeeehawwww!

    Mike
    [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
    When the chips are down,

    The buffalo is empty!!!



  3. #13
    fhovie's Avatar
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    I have always done pretty well with the long scales and toning them down. I recently got bit by ignoring the flat scenes. I shot some of some desert dunes recently at mid-day. It was all pretty bright but I failed to consider that the sand was EV15 and I placed it at zone 8 - the lowest EV was 13 and I have this really flat and thin negative. A painful lesson for me because I think I would know better. I will have an opportunity to do it again in the next 2 weeks and will rate my film (TRI-X) at 400 instead of 200 and will go for 19 minutes in PyrocatHD 1:1:100 instead of the 12 minutes I did before. I am believing that will streach my dismal 2 stop range to a modest 4 stop range and make the scene more interesting. It is enough to make you wonder if the developer is getting shelf worn or if I just goofed when I mixed it. Oh well ...
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  4. #14
    Zathras's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce (Camclicker)
    My origional Post:
    "I thought this was like a spot metered Shadow EV of 6 subtracted from a Bright EV of 13 giving a SBR of 7 stops. From that 7 we would make a personal discission whether or not to adjust our development time and by how much. "
    [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=RoyalBlue]No argument here. Using a spot meter, you'll get a 7 stop SBR with the readings you mentioned . If you use the BTZS Incident System, which involves multiple incident readings as well as film speed manipulation, than you would determine the SBR as explained by Mr. Blunt.

    For a more detailed explanation, see "Beyond The Zone System" by Phil Davis, specfically the the section on the Incident System. If I attempt to explain this, I'll just end up confusing myself

    Mike
    [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
    When the chips are down,

    The buffalo is empty!!!



  5. #15
    noseoil's Avatar
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    fhovie, you might want to consider a film with better expansion characteristics than Tri-x. Efke 100 or Efke 25 would both be better choices for a flat scene, as they can be squeezed further than tri-x. Tri-x is great for snappy contrast scenes and light, but I prefer something with more latitude with the flat light you will be working in. Both do well in pyrocat.

  6. #16
    fhovie's Avatar
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    Thanks for the thought nosoil, that is something I had not really considered - I used to shoot a lot of FP4 in LF and kind of got away form it because my exposure times often became too long for the scene.(movement) When I shot the dunes the other day, with tri-x at 200, I was still shooting at 1/4 second due to the red filter (-2) and an unwillingness to open further than f32 (for the movements) - I still have a full box of FP4 in the freezer and also some TMAX 100 - which I hear is really contrasty - - I will try both of them out here at home and see how the work for expansion. - With landscapes it seems contraction is always the important skill and so here I am again on the learning curve.

    Which is why I stick with photography as a hobby. I don't think one can really learn all of it in one lifetime. - Always something new to do with it.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  7. #17
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    FP4 is gustier than avererage and TMax is as well. You'll get great results with both.
    "EVERY film and paper is good .......... for something"
    Phil Davis

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