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  1. #1

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    Delta 100 shot at 800, best chance to salvage anything

    I have just realised that over the last week or two I've shot a couple of rolls of HP5 and a roll of Delta 100, three stops under exposed. I was using a new light meter app on my phone (light meter tools for android) and using the filter compensation feature to add 1.5 stops of neutral density to account for the yellow 12 filter that I way using. For some reason the app also allows positive nd values and indeed these are the values which are visible when you open the filter section, whilst negative nd values are hidden off screen. I thought I was adding additional exposure, in fact I was taking it away. All in all the films were 3 stops under exposed.

    I admit that it should have been obvious that something was wrong but I find reading winter sunlight difficult and unpredictable.

    That's the sob story, now for the solution.

    I know I am not going to get back shadow detail that was never exposed but I would like to be able to salvage something, if at all possible. I'm sure I will have better luck with the HP5 as this is generally considered a good film for pushing so my main focus is on the Delta 100.

    I have HC110, Rodinal, Xtol and Acu-1 (long life version of acufine) available to me. I will be looking to print these on mult-grade paper rather than scan.

    My thought is either a straight push with Xtol or Acu-1 or a 2 hour stand in Rodinal.

    I've never bothered with stand development and I'm aware that it cannot perform miracles but I have seen examples of two stop pushes using this method with impressive results. I would like to keep the contrast manageable whilst salvaging any mid-tones that I can and I'm worried that a straight push would end up with extreme contrast.

    I've never used the Acu-1 developer (or Acufine) they are meant to be speed increasing developers but I rarely see them mentioned around here. What do people think about the claimed speed increases? Are they genuine?

    I'm also aware that this may be a write-off which I will have to chalk up as a learning experience but I'd like to give it my best shot.
    Rules are for the guidance of wise men but the obedience of fools. [Anon]

  2. #2

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    If it is truly underexposed by 3 stops, either accept the loss of shadow detail and develop normally, or develop the hell out of it in an attempt to get as much emulsion speed as you can. Nothing in between will be of much use in my opinion. In either scenario, with the chemicals you have, nothing exotic in the way of dilutions or stands is going to help materially (especially since it is roll film which totally rules out stand development in my book). So I would make the following recommendations:

    1) If you develop normally, use XTOL as it will give you the best emulsion speed
    2) If you do a max push, Rodinal might give you lower fog. My advice would be to forget about stand development with roll film, which won't accomplish anything anyway - you'll just get high contrast with anything longer than 30 minutes based on my experiments.

    Just my two cents.

  3. #3

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    +1 for Diafine!

  4. #4
    MartinCrabtree's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snapguy View Post
    Personally, I would soup the stuff in Diafine.

    Please forgive my ignorance but could ya clarify the term soup for me?

    Thanks.
    ".............you don't see no hearses with luggage racks................"

  5. #5

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    Based on what you have on hand I would recommend HC-110 Dilution B for about 2.5X the time you would use for the film at 100. If you can get something else then I would recommend undiluted Ilford Microphen for about 2.5X the time for the film at 100.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinCrabtree View Post
    Please forgive my ignorance but could ya clarify the term soup for me?
    As a noun: developer
    As a verb: to develop

  7. #7
    MartinCrabtree's Avatar
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    OK so it's not a method. Thanks.
    ".............you don't see no hearses with luggage racks................"

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinCrabtree View Post
    OK so it's not a method. Thanks.
    Only in the most general sense.

  9. #9
    Axle's Avatar
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    Go with Xtol or Acu-1

    But since I have zero expereince with Acu-1, but some with Accufine....I say Xtol

    Quote Originally Posted by snapguy View Post
    Personally, I would soup the stuff in Diafine.
    I use the term 'souping film' all the time.
    Canadian Correspondent for the Film Photography Podcast
    A bi-monthly podcast for people who love to shoot film!

  10. #10

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    If it was a dark cloudy day and you took reflected readings you will be ok, just.

    You might want to develop for 10-15 % longer to try and get more contrast for a easier print.

    Id recommend Microphen stock per Ilfords times for normal exposure or +15%.

    But Id normally use Rodinal 1:100 @ 20C 60 minutes stand.

    Either of there will give good toe detail. The Delta toe will be horrible. I find PanF easier to deal with.

    I recommend spending some time without a camera but with a borrowed incident meter calibrating your head for sunny side /16. If you understand rules you should be within a 1/3 of a stop.

    It is simpler getting a Weston II, invercone, and filter, and reading up on the zone system. Mine has been down an escalator, but not recommended, for a smart phone either.

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