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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flotsam
    I don't mean to jump on Nicole's thread but I am thinking of switching to Xtol also, as a replacement for D-76 (for Efke 50 & 100 and possibly Tri X) in my darkroom. Maybe we can both learn from the experienced Xtol users here. One thing that concerns me is the reported sudden, surprise loss of activity that I have read about. Should that be a worry to me? Has anyone experienced this?
    Also, I know that glass is always recommended for critical chem storage but I'm thinking that a plastic carbonated beverage bottle that is designed to contain gas under pressure indefinitely should probably be pretty danged airtight, they are even putting Beer in plastic these days (Sacrilege). Any thoughts?
    Neil, I tested Xtol with Efke 25 and had really bad luck with it. It did not come close to Delta 100 and Xtol. It may be my way of diluting is in appropriate but it was not close.
    Xtol, it does have a point of no return and is final. With 3 1/2 gallons mixed I get 36 rolls of 120. Any more it dies.

    Mixing the chemestry: I pour 1/3 of the tank with water at around 100 degrees, pour in the dilution A then B mixing with a paint mixer attached to a drill. Pouring the powder only at a speed that totaly dilutes/dissolves. If it settles on the bottom it hardens and is a pain to break up. I let the mixed portion cool and settle for about 1/2 hour then bring it to full volume and temperature stirring with a plastic kitchen spoon. I never store the mixed chemestry only process when I can use up then dispose.

    With 35mm and 4x5 my processing times are 10 minutes. With 120 they are 12 minutes. Why it worked out this way I have no idea.
    Fp4 seems to work about the same but I only use FP4 8x10 and don't want to mix smaller quantities so I end up using a mixture of rodinal and Hc110.

    Hope this helps!
    Stop trying to get into my mind, There is nothing there!

  2. #12

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    I've used Xtol extensively since it came out, and I've never had "Xtol Failure." I used to mix it with distilled water, but now I just use tap water. I store it for up to a year (or so) in a 2.5 gallon plastic container with a floating lid. There's a spigot at the bottom for easy dispensing. I routinely use it at 1 + 2 and 1 + 3 in a Jobo processor. I've always used the 5 liter packets. Kodak did have problems with the 1 liter packets years ago. I don't think that they make these anymore.

    -Peter
    www.desmidt.net

  3. #13

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    I use the wine bottels with the screw top; work just fine. The glass quart/liter V-8 bottles work well too. I'm not sure about plastic. Some folks have no problems, but glass does not let air in for sure. Soda bottles are not good, they do let air in through the plastic. That's why soda is dated.

    If you get into pyro, the metal bottle tops are a no-no; the pyro eats the metal away. Glass bottles with a plastic lids is the way to go for pyro.

  4. #14

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    Ryuji Suzuki's page is worth a read --> http://silvergrain.org/Photo-Tech/plastic.html

  5. #15
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    I'm going to hijack things here too, hope you don't mind. I'm almost out of D-76, so I've been thinking I might try a new developer. I shoot mostly Hp5 and Tri-X, and a little D3200 both 35mm and 120. What are the differences between XTOL and D-76 in terms of developing properties? Is XTOL more environmentally friendly? Any other thoughts...
    Thanks

  6. #16
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    I've never tried XTOL, but have been tempted enough to research it.

    Here is a resource page--

    http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/xtol/

    Here is a resource for Amber glass bottle. Although they have plastic if you preferr.

    http://www.chemistrystore.com/amberbottles.htm

    let us know what you decide.

  7. #17

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    I have never had XTOL failure and have been using it since it first came out.

    I would recommend not storing it for any longer then 3 months. There is some evidence that it can become inconsistent with age.

    When I mix it, I mix with one gallon water and then add the additional water at the end before decanting into 500ml bottles.

    I use distilled water for the original solution and dilluting, but have mixed it with my tap water and had no problems.
    "Fundamentally I think we need to rediscover a non-ironic world"
    Robert Adams

  8. #18

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    Hi All,

    I don't recommend what I do, and in fact see a potential reason not to do it. However, I like to experiment with lots of film and developer combinations and need to both save shelf space and have fresh chemicals in small amounts.

    The way I mix Xtol is to accurately weigh out 1/3 of packages A and B from the 5 L kit and mix them with 1670 ml of H2O. I am aware that theoretically this could result in a misproportionate distribution of the constituents the powders within each package. My experience over the past 4 years, however, is that I get consistant results and don't need to worry about the amount of air in my 2 L Rubbermaid storage container. I always use up this 1.7 L amount in about three months and so can not comment on the long term life. I use distilled water at room temperature and mix with an ancient Kodak ventilated stirring paddle.

    Again I am not recommending this method, just sharing my experience in the hope that it might be useful to someone with parallel needs.

    Cheers, Jay

  9. #19

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    FYI, you can mix Xtol at double strength, but I think your water needs to be a little hot. In theory, the lower dilution should improve keeping quality.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Suzanne Revy
    I'm going to hijack things here too, hope you don't mind. I'm almost out of D-76, so I've been thinking I might try a new developer. I shoot mostly Hp5 and Tri-X, and a little D3200 both 35mm and 120. What are the differences between XTOL and D-76 in terms of developing properties? Is XTOL more environmentally friendly? Any other thoughts...
    Thanks
    Log onto Kodak's web site and find their B&W developer comparison page. Kodak rates XTOL as a high acutance, fine grain developer. Kodak rates D76 (undiluted) as a low acutance developer with slightly finer grain than XTOL.

    XTOL is basically a Ascorbic Acid/Phenidone developer and thus may be a bit more environmentally friendly than D76 (Metol/Hydroquinone).

    BTW, ascorbic acid/phenidone developers and ascorbic acid/metol developers mixed as concentrated stock solutions in Triethanolamine (TEA) keep for years.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

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