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  1. #11
    fhovie's Avatar
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    I highly recommend the MYTOL - I use it a lot for push processing or for big enlargements. It also keeps well if it is denied Oxygen. I had some stock solution I mixed up in February (6 mo old) and used it last week. I had it in one of those "accordian" plastic bottles and so there was no air in it. It worked perfectly. (It had yellowed a little) I have not tried mixing it as a concentrate but that sounds like a good idea. I bet the concentrate decays less than the working mixture over time.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by fhovie
    I highly recommend the MYTOL - I use it a lot for push processing or for big enlargements. It also keeps well if it is denied Oxygen. I had some stock solution I mixed up in February (6 mo old) and used it last week. I had it in one of those "accordian" plastic bottles and so there was no air in it. It worked perfectly. (It had yellowed a little)
    Interesting about the yellowing -- I'd always heard that PC developers don't yellow as they age or go bad. Also, you might want to check out this page. It's got aging tests on several developers, including D-76, XTOL, and Mytol. One key point was that the accordian-style bottles they tested actually reduced storage life. They speculate that the reason was that the plastic wasn't impermeable to air. This speculation is backed up by this page by Ryuji Suzuki, which describes plastic storage bottles' suitability for storing chemicals. The accordian bottles I've got use #2 (HDPE) plastic, which Suzuki recommends against using for developers because they're relatively permeable to air.
    Last edited by srs5694; 08-30-2005 at 08:36 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #13

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    I do recommend glass or PET (PETE in the US) bottles for storing developers. HDPE might be ok if the bottle walls are very thick, but ones used for beverages are often thin.

    Ascorbate developers may or may not darken when they are oxidized. It depends on the formula.

    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694
    Interesting about the yellowing -- I'd always heard that PC developers don't yellow as they age or go bad. Also, you might want to check out [url=http://www.udmercy.edu/crna/agm/phenvitc.htm]this page.[/i] It's got aging tests on several developers, including D-76, XTOL, and Mytol. One key point was that the accordian-style bottles they tested actually reduced storage life. They speculate that the reason was that the plastic wasn't impermeable to air. This speculation is backed up by this page by Ryuji Suzuki, which describes plastic storage bottles' suitability for storing chemicals. The accordian bottles I've got use #2 (HDPE) plastic, which Suzuki recommends against using for developers because they're relatively permeable to air.

  4. #14
    fhovie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694
    Interesting about the yellowing -- I'd always heard that PC developers don't yellow as they age or go bad. Also, you might want to check out this page. It's got aging tests on several developers, including D-76, XTOL, and Mytol. One key point was that the accordian-style bottles they tested actually reduced storage life. They speculate that the reason was that the plastic wasn't impermeable to air. This speculation is backed up by this page by Ryuji Suzuki, which describes plastic storage bottles' suitability for storing chemicals. The accordian bottles I've got use #2 (HDPE) plastic, which Suzuki recommends against using for developers because they're relatively permeable to air.
    This is true for certain developers - especially pyrocatechol which caused the OUTSIDE of the accordian bottle to turn black and smelly - I now keep p'cat solution A in amber glass and use glass marbles to keep the level at the top. There is no such reaction with MYTOL, or p'cat part b. The bottles will not last too long and I will not replace them with the same. I bought a caase of the 1 liter amber glass bottles from US Plastics pretty cheap and a couple of the very thick brown 2L Nalgene bottles (pretty expensive) that are pretty impervious. You can tell if the material is pourous to the chemicals you are working with - the chemical can be smelled through the plastic. I
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicole Boenig-McGrade
    Georges this is great info, I keep coming back to it. Thanks again!

    Can I as though if anyone has any experience with using a Replenishing system with full strength Xtol?

    How do you store it?
    How do you adjust your dev times?
    Hi Nicole !
    You're welcome !
    As to replenish Xtol, I think it is not so good an idea. (as is replenishment for any dev I know).
    The qualities of the chemicals will change from the first roll to the last you put into it. So it will be difficult to be consistent, unless you own and care for a high tech equipment for making, measuring the dev.
    One shot for a dev is the way to go, in my opinion.
    Keep in mind that Kodak ask for 100 CC of stock Xtol for a roll (135/36) so you will have to replenish at this high rate .... And will have only ten rolls a liter...
    Also, how can you do 1+1 or 1+2 (my favorite) with replenishment ???
    Have a nice day !

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryuji
    I do recommend glass or PET (PETE in the US) bottles for storing developers. HDPE might be ok if the bottle walls are very thick, but ones used for beverages are often thin.
    In line with the Photographic Rip-Offs thread (http://www.apug.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8006) has anyone tried using homebrew beer bottles for chems storage?

    After a quick web search I've found packs of 24 1 litre PET bottles with caps for £13 and packs of 12 glass 500 ml beer bottles for £7.50 at http://www.brewathome.co.uk/ This seems to be roughly half the price as specialist bottles from photo stores like Silverprint...
    The destination is important, but so is the journey

  7. #17
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    Today I bought 200ml, 500ml and 1ltr amber glass bottles from a packaging company. the 500ml bottles cost just 93 cents (AUD) each.
    That's my storage sorted for now.

  8. #18
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    Um, sorry, I missed the obvious solution...

    1) Buy various bottles of beer (Old Speckled Hen, Theakstons Old Peculiar, etc.)
    2) Drink beer
    3) Buy beer caps (24 for £1.50)
    4) Experiment to see which bottles the caps fit
    5) Buy more beer of the appropriate type
    6) Drink beer
    7) When hangover has worn off, wash bottles thoroughly
    8) Fill bottles with whatever chemicals you desire and seal with cap
    9) Label bottles clearly enough to be visible even after drinking beer!

    ...I'm a little surprised I didn't think of it before!
    The destination is important, but so is the journey

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankB
    Um, sorry, I missed the obvious solution...

    1) Buy various bottles of beer (Old Speckled Hen, Theakstons Old Peculiar, etc.)
    2) Drink beer
    3) Buy beer caps (24 for £1.50)
    4) Experiment to see which bottles the caps fit
    5) Buy more beer of the appropriate type
    6) Drink beer
    7) When hangover has worn off, wash bottles thoroughly
    8) Fill bottles with whatever chemicals you desire and seal with cap
    9) Label bottles clearly enough to be visible even after drinking beer!

    ...I'm a little surprised I didn't think of it before!
    Now yer talkin`, anyway, wot`s wrong wiv homebrew wines & beers?

  10. #20
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    Small amber bottles can be found in the UK if you search for Winchester bottles - often sold by aromatherapy suppliers and the like.

    Bob.

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