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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694
    This is basically the reasoning Ryuji Suzuki presents in one of his Web pages. He claims that salicylates work well to solve the problem, and this is the approach he uses in his DS-10 and DS-12 developers. I don't know if adding salicylic acid to regular XTOL would have any beneficial effects. FWIW, XTOL already uses a preservative that's related to EDTA.
    EDTA is a sequestrant, not really a preservative.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson
    EDTA is a sequestrant, not really a preservative.
    EDTA does not scavenge for oxygen as does sulfite and,
    even more so, ascorbate. It is though a weak diprotic acid
    and the sodium salt will be alkaline in solution. Just as
    well as it is in alkaline solutions that it does complex.

    Wimberley's WD2D + contains EDTA but his previous WD2D
    did not. He recommends using using only distilled water with
    both developers. So why the EDTA? Perhaps it is included to
    modify and/or buffer the ph. After all it is a carbonated
    pyro developer.

    BTW, his WD2D formula is public domain but not the +. Dan

  3. #33
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    Fhovie - You mention " ...using a big plastic spoon, and crack the small cacked spots in the pail bottom." A fellow photographer friend found (as I did) that sometimes there would be bright spots on the neg after development. Appartently this was because very small grains of undisolved Xtol was present. The solution is to let it stand over night. This will completely disolve all of the the Xtol. BTW, I use a drill with a stainless steel paint mixer.
    [FONT=Times New Roman]MAC[/FONT]

  4. #34
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    I have a magnetic mixer which is one of my favourite gadgets at present and use coffee filters to filter ( thx clogz ) the made up full strength Xtol. It's just getting harder to buy for me.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by hortense
    Fhovie - You mention " ...using a big plastic spoon, and crack the small cacked spots in the pail bottom." A fellow photographer friend found (as I did) that sometimes there would be bright spots on the neg after development. Appartently this was because very small grains of undisolved Xtol was present. The solution is to let it stand over night. This will completely disolve all of the the Xtol. BTW, I use a drill with a stainless steel paint mixer.
    Not me - I heat the water up to 125F put it in an oversize bottle - add the chemicals and shake like crazy. This always worked for me when I made Nitro. - just kidding about the nitro part. I make Mytol from scratch and don't have trouble with any of the chemicals disolving. I have never purchased XTOL.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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