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  1. #11
    titrisol's Avatar
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    Works great when you want to watch a soccer or a basketball game!
    IIRC after 3 hours all the activity of the Rodinal is go-go-gone!

    Quote Originally Posted by chuck94022
    I must say this process felt like cheating. Rodinal is easy to mix, I didn't have to mix up any stop, the fixer is a quick mix, and no hypo clear to mix. I didn't have to monitor the development and agitate (except the first minute), and time wasn't particularly critical on any of the other steps.

    While it took a long time, I spent almost no time, and ended up with pretty nice negatives at the end. I don't intend to use Rodinal 1:200 for everything, but it's a nice addition to my palatte. Thanks for all the advice.

    -chuck
    Mama took my APX away.....

  2. #12
    chiller's Avatar
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    Does temperature play a significant role in this process?

    For example it is summer here in australia and the ambient temperature of everything in the darkroom is at least 30 + degrees [C]
    Steve

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiller
    Does temperature play a significant role in this process?

    For example it is summer here in australia and the ambient temperature of everything in the darkroom is at least 30 + degrees [C]
    I can't speak from experience but I'd bet that much variation would certainly make a difference.

    -chuck

  4. #14
    gnashings's Avatar
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    Please humour a relative new comer - why would one want to do this? I'm not being snide, I actually don't know. Please fill me in.

  5. #15
    George Papantoniou's Avatar
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    "Please humour a relative new comer - why would one want to do this? I'm not being snide, I actually don't know. Please fill me in."

    - Just for (more) fun....

  6. #16
    Mongo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnashings
    Please humour a relative new comer - why would one want to do this? I'm not being snide, I actually don't know. Please fill me in.
    There are two main reasons why one would use stand development: contrast control and sharpness enhancement.

    The mechanism for the first is pretty easy to understand. In very light areas of the scene (which are very dark areas on the negative), a lot of developer activity occurs converting the silver halides to silver. In the very dark areas of the scene (light areas on the negative), very little developer activity occurs. If you dramatically reduce the amount of developer in your solution and increase the time the film sits without being disturbed, the highlight (dark) areas will exhaust the developer that's close to them, but won't be able to get fresh developer because there's no agitation going on to move the developer around. In the shadow (light) areas of the negative, development can continue for a long time, as the amount of silver halide being converted is small so the developer that's close to the shadow parts of the scene doesn't get worn out. The highlights can't over-develop because the developer wears out...the shadows can keep developing but they do it very slowly...so over a long period of time you can get all of the parts of a high-contrast scene to develop detail without blowing out the highlights or blocking the shadows.

    The second reason (sharpness enhancement) is a harder to explain and more controversial. The theory is that the chemical reaction that's taking place when the silver halide is converted to silver can cause some migration of silver from the edges of less dense areas on the negatives to the edges of more dense areas, thus increasing the appearance of sharpness. (A dark tree against a bright sky appears sharp...if you outlined the tree just a little darker and outlined the sky a little lighter, the tree would look even sharper.) I won't delve into the different opinions on whether or not this happens, how important it is if it does happen, or anything else to do with it...search this site and you'll find plenty of information on this.

    How dilute should your developer be? How long should your film sit in the developer? How long is too long? When might fog appear or other problems come up? These are a few of the questions some of us want to answer, so we share information hoping that we can figure out some rules that work for all of us.
    Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.

  7. #17

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    my gratitude to anyone will suggest me some generic guidelines with stand developing of fp4 in rodinal. I mean, approx. dilution, time, agitation and most of all, eventual loss of film speed.
    Warm regards

  8. #18
    gnashings's Avatar
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    Mongo,

    I thank you for your exhaustive explanation - now I can follow this discussion with some degree of understanding!

    I may even try, I have a roll of 120 HP4+ (400) that has that exact composition on it (trees silhouetted against the sky) and I might give it a shot!

  9. #19

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    also, what about adding some potassium iodide as antifoggant?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perikles
    my gratitude to anyone will suggest me some generic guidelines with stand developing of fp4 in rodinal. I mean, approx. dilution, time, agitation and most of all, eventual loss of film speed.
    Warm regards

  10. #20
    Mongo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perikles
    my gratitude to anyone will suggest me some generic guidelines with stand developing of fp4 in rodinal. I mean, approx. dilution, time, agitation and most of all, eventual loss of film speed.
    Warm regards
    I haven't tried Rodinal with FP4+ yet, but my basic starting rules for testing stand development are:

    68 degrees F, 1:200 (i.e., 3ml of Rodinal in 600ml of water), pre-rinse for five minutes (with lots of agitation), agitate for the first three minutes the film is in the developer, knock the bubbles loose, let stand for 30 minutes, agitate for 10 seconds, another good knock to release the bubbles, then let stand for 60 minutes. 90+ minutes is a long time to wait to see if your negatives turned out, and I definately recommend against trying this with negatives you care about unless you've done some experimentation first.

    I have yet to have this process give me negatives that are unprintable. I've done this with Pan-F+, J&C 100 Pro, J&C 200, Efke 100, and FomaPan 200 (all in 120 size). All were shot between 1/3rd and 2/3rds of a stop slower than box speed. The negatives have all been sharp and have held highlight detail while not blocking the shadows. But it may be that I've been lucky...experimentation is definately called for with stand- and semi-stand-development.
    Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.

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