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  1. #21
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    Clear or black? If you're referring to the emulsion color, then clear with black lettering.

    Hard or soft? I have no idea. What is the difference between hard and soft in regards to film?

    Thin or thick? Probably on the thick side. But I had no problems loading a plastic reel.

    There was some shadow tonality although I'm going by memory at the moment.

    If you have developed the previous emulsion with good results, you may want to start with those conditions.
    Diane

    Halak 41

  2. #22
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by colrehogan
    If you have developed the previous emulsion with good results, you may want to start with those conditions.
    Ehr - I have, but I did that by inspection. 4x5" in trays. And I have no idea of the time, as any darkroom worker will verify.

    So the negatives aren't completely clear, since you say there is some tonality. "Thin" and "thick" also refer to the density of the image, and mean respectively almost clear (underdeveloped) and almost black (overexposed and probably overdeveloped too). Same with hard and soft, but they refer to the contrast of the negative and are a consequence of development only.

    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  3. #23
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole
    Ehr - I have, but I did that by inspection. 4x5" in trays. And I have no idea of the time, as any darkroom worker will verify.

    So the negatives aren't completely clear, since you say there is some tonality. "Thin" and "thick" also refer to the density of the image, and mean respectively almost clear (underdeveloped) and almost black (overexposed and probably overdeveloped too). Same with hard and soft, but they refer to the contrast of the negative and are a consequence of development only.

    Sorry, you can tell I'm not a darkroom worker. All my developing is done in the daylight.

    Yes, the negatives are clear. I mistakenly thought that you were asking if I could see tonality in the shadow details. Oops.

    As for thin and thick, if I exposed it properly, then the neg looked good to me. I did have some thin and thick ones as I was bracketing to see what it took to get the IR effect with each filter. I finished scanning them last night and can post some of them later after I get home from work. The writing in the film rebate looked like it was in bold print, but it was legible.

    Okay, I'm at home and I've looked and the stuff in the film rebate looks like it should and isn't bold. I will post some pics tomorrow from work (much faster connection).
    Last edited by colrehogan; 04-28-2005 at 07:59 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Diane

    Halak 41

  4. #24
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    I've posted a few pics from my first roll of the film in my gallery. The camera was set to ISO 400 when all shots were taken. I left my notes at home, so I don't have any exposure details at the moment. All my shots taken with a Lee 87 filter were blown out and I'll have to try that one again, I suppose.
    Diane

    Halak 41

  5. #25
    Ole
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    Great!

    I'll see if I can get my film developed today, and printed - one of these days (I don't have a TF film scanner, it only likes 6x6 and up).
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  6. #26
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    Just had the following email from Maco. This is from a Danish photographer also trying out the new film.

    Email starts:
    ---------

    The images that I scanned is available here (dust marks not removed):

    http://klauselmquist.dk/photo.php?name=ir1

    There seems to be no pressure plate marks on the images. Good! Very nice!
    Technique: Leica M6, Elmar-M 50mm/f2.8, Heliopan RG715 filter.
    I assumed that the film is two stop faster than IR 820c and hence generally made four bracket shots at 1/125: f/8 f/5.6 f/4 f/2.8.
    Processing was as described in the IR820c PDF: Prewash for 30 seconds, 5,5 minutes LP-Supergrain developer (D76), 1 minute LP-Citrin stopbath, 3 minutes LP-Fix Supra, 4 wash cycles as described for IR820c, 1 minutes LP-Masterproof wetting agent.

    Initial comments on IR 820/400:
    - I like the extra speed as this allows me to use 1/125 or 1/60 with a decent DOF while IR 820c allows for 1/30 or 1/15.
    - IR 820/400 dried surprisingly fast and with no flatness problems.
    - The film advance in my camera made much less, if any, "noise" compared to IR 820c.
    - The film is somewhat grainy, though I like to be absolutely sure about the exposure and processing of IR 820/400 before I can say anything for sure.
    - The developed negatives had a light blue colour. This could be a result of improper washing, either before or after development.

    - I miss the halations possible with IR 820c, such as:
    http://klauselmquist.dk/image/irsolbaer_1_l.jpg
    http://klauselmquist.dk/image/irsolbaer_1_n.jpg (smaller version)
    On the other hand this gives the option for sharper IR images.

    Email Ends
    ------------

    Well it's a perfect day for IR here in my part of the UK, bright sunshine, temperature about 20 degrees, lots of lovely white fluffy clouds, the new green grass on the hills is positively glowing. -- And I'm stuck at work

    Cheers

    Mike

  7. #27
    jim kirk jr.'s Avatar
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    In my gallery I posted two pics about a week ago with the new film and 820c for comparison with the same filter in place.At ISO 400 there is a noticable difference in the
    "glow" between them.Have already shot another roll(undeveloped as of yet)at ISO 200
    "An object never performs the same function as its name or its image"-Rene Magritte

    "An image of a dog does not bite"-William James applied to photography

  8. #28
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    i used a hoya 720 ir filter,
    rated it as 6 asa.

    development:
    id-11 1+1
    20 degrees
    9 minutes.

  9. #29
    Ole
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    Finally got around to developing my first film:

    Exposed as metered by the Bessa-L, with Color-Skopar 21mm/f:4 lens, Heliopan IR695 filter, camera set to EI 400. Also did a few tests with bracketing from 2 steps under to two steps over.

    Developed for 20 minutes in Neofin Blau, after a 2 minute presoak (which came out greenish blue). Four inversions every minute in the beginning, decreasing to every two or three minutes in the end (I get bored and do something else between the inversions).

    No stop bath.

    Dumped in 100ml of 60% ammonium thiosulfate at the end of developing, at which time the developer should be well and truly exhausted. Agitated vigorously for two minutes, then let sit for three more.

    Wash as per "Ilford method", hang to dry.

    Negatives look very nice! The ones following the meter seem spot on, 2 over is as obviously overexposed as the 2 under are too thin. Contrast is fairly high, but we'll see how they print (tomorrow?) before I recommend changes in the development.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  10. #30

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    I am dying to try out this film and can't ssem to locate the rg715(88a) filter I want to try. Where can I find this in 52mm thread? Any APUG sponsors carry this?
    Thanks,
    Mike

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