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  1. #1
    tbm
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    Indoor volleyball game: which film?

    Next weekend I will be shooting an indoor volleyball game with my Leica R8 and probably my 180mm APO Elmarit. Since these days I'm only shooting b&w film, which do you recommend? I suspect the lighting will be rather low and dull which means ISO 100, my favorite speed, will be out of the question. At the same time, I loathe gritty grain in prints and want a good tone spread.

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    I would shoot TriX and develop in Dinafine, if you can get it, I have not much luck in getting it in the last few years.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tbm
    Next weekend I will be shooting an indoor volleyball game with my Leica R8 and probably my 180mm APO Elmarit. Since these days I'm only shooting b&w film, which do you recommend? I suspect the lighting will be rather low and dull which means ISO 100, my favorite speed, will be out of the question. At the same time, I loathe gritty grain in prints and want a good tone spread.
    The best of the very fast films in my experience is Fuji Neopan 1600. Its true speed is sbout 650-800, attainable in Xtol or Acutol. Run tests first, because this film develops very quickly. Unlike the other two very fast films (which are rather soft in contrast), it tends toward harsh contrast unless development is controlled by greater-than-normal dilution. I use Acutol 1+16.5 for about 7,5-8 minutes. It is much finer-grained than Delta 3200, and considerably finer-grained than T-Max 3200.

  4. #4
    SchwinnParamount's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Howell
    I would shoot TriX and develop in Dinafine, if you can get it, I have not much luck in getting it in the last few years.
    I second Paul's choice but I would suggest XTOL which is easy to find. XTOL also has the advantage of preserving the rated film speed of TriX and gives fine grain when not diluted or at the most diluted 1:1

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    Quote Originally Posted by SchwinnParamount
    I second Paul's choice but I would suggest XTOL which is easy to find. XTOL also has the advantage of preserving the rated film speed of TriX and gives fine grain when not diluted or at the most diluted 1:1
    The Neopan 1600 will give you about 2/3 to one full a stop more true speed than Tri-X in anything.

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    Not that I'm an expert, but I just shot some Tri-X along side some TMax 400 developed in Ilfosol-S, and I am quite impressed with the tight grain in the Tri-X. I hadn't shot it in about 10 years, and am now wondering why that is.

  7. #7
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    Do a search on APUG. Many have had very good luck shooting tri-x @ ~ 1600. Helen B and David Goldfarb both have much to say on the subject.
    Last edited by mrcallow; 04-12-2005 at 04:21 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: tri-x not tri-z

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinR
    Not that I'm an expert, but I just shot some Tri-X along side some TMax 400 developed in Ilfosol-S, and I am quite impressed with the tight grain in the Tri-X. I hadn't shot it in about 10 years, and am now wondering why that is.
    Can you show a comparison?

  9. #9
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    You may want to try HP5 pushed to 800 processed in Microphen. I have seen excellent results with this combination.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ornello
    Can you show a comparison?

    I don't have a scanner, I actually just developed the film this weekend and printed this morning. I grabbed the Tri-X by accident. I had planned on shooting all Tmax. But to my surprise, the Tri-X looked really good.

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