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  1. #21

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    Oops!
    The mysterious Sotol 1-2 referenced above is actually the more familiar Xtol 1-2. I do proof and spell check my posts, but that one got by me.

    Jay L.

  2. #22
    Daniel Lawton's Avatar
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    I agree Jay, most people seem to think the newer plus-x actually looks better than the old as opposed to other Kodak films that receive mixed reviews when compared to their old counterparts. I recently shot some Plus-x and developed in HC-110 dil "H" and liked the results. A little on the flat side but made for nice easy-to-print negatives that displayed good sharpness.

  3. #23
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    I have used Plus-x for a while now souped in Tmax developer and like its contrast but I would love to try it in Rodinal 1:50. Can anyone provide some times apart from Digitaltruth and the other usual sources.

    Peter

    p.s. sorry to hijack your thread Daniel.

  4. #24
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Plus-X in HC-110: WOW!

    Two years later, I revisit my lukewarm response to Plus-X, and now I can say: I got it! I figured it out! I can see where it looks good!

    I rented a Hasselblad a little while ago, and I went along taking pictures on a bright sunny day, from 1PM to 4PM. Chilly cold, wind factor brings us down to -30C I'm sure, and lots of sparkling white snow everywhere.

    I bought three different films: Plus-X, Tri-X 400, and Tri-X 320. I have been shooting high contrast scenes: angular light on snow, shade and light, etc. All kinds of scenes that would supposedly ask for a soft developer to keep the highlights in check.

    But oh! the idiot: I used HC-110, which actually augments highlight contrast by depressing the midtones. Well, DUH! I just made sure I did not over-develop. Dilution H, 9 minutes for all films, based on some prior testing and my big thumb.

    The contacts are perfect on a Grade 2, and negatives print somewhere between Grade 2 and Grade 3 on Ilford MGIV RC, depending on the scene. I used incident light reading to work faster.

    Plus-X and Tri-X 320 really are in the same family. They both have sparkling whites and rich blacks, the signature of an upswept curve, if I am not mistaken.

    In comparison, Tri-X 400 has a much more straight curve: tones are more evenly distributed. This is not what I wanted in a scene that has lots of dark areas immediately adjacent to bright whites areas. (If you want to have a quick idea of the difference an upswept curve does, open up Photoshop, and apply such a curve to a rather flat photo, but I digress.)

    I understand now why the last snow scenes I took with Tri-X 400 in XTOL did not look satisfactory: too much midtones. XTOL emphasizes the midtones, which is great for portrait, street photography, or anything that employs subtle shades of gray.

    Chuck the midtones by employing Plus-X or TXP in HC-110, photograph a sharply lit subject, and voilà! you have that great "Kodak" look, typical of many Ansel Adams photos.

    I'll post scans later this week when I have the chance, but I am absolutely over my head with Plus-X. I will try it in 35mm to see if the contrast effects of HC-110 also look good in a smaller format.

    Yeah, and I want a Hasselblad too. Or a Rolleiflex...
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  5. #25

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    Yep...Dilution H, 9 minutes, TXP equals great negatives. Some of my favorite and easiest printing images.

    I've only been printing for 3 months, but these negs have been the easiest to get great results from.

  6. #26
    Stephen Frizza's Avatar
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    In the lab here i get a fair amount of Plus -x come through I'de not have known it was a little unsung hero. it seems popular to me.
    Its liked a lot by some portrait photographers who also shoot Tri-x.

    ~Steve
    The Lighthouse Lab

  7. #27
    munz6869's Avatar
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    I use almost nothing but Plus X/Rodinal 1:25 (for b&w) - I love the tones, but more importantly, I am very very familiar with what things will look like on the neg, and for me that frees up other bits of my shrinking brain at important times...

    Marc

  8. #28
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhv View Post
    Dilution H, 9 minutes for all films, based on some prior testing and my big thumb.
    Michel:

    What sort of agitation are you using with Plus-X?

    Matt

  9. #29
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Michel:

    What sort of agitation are you using with Plus-X?

    Matt
    Constant for the first 30s (in a small tank; in a large tank I would use constant 60s), then 5 flips every minute.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  10. #30

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    Plus-X (35mm) / 64 speed / HC-110 (1:15, 5 min. @ 168°F) would always yield easy-to-print, fine grain negs.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

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