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Thread: Smelly Toners?

  1. #11
    JeffD's Avatar
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    I wonder if many people Selenium tone, then Sepia. I use the smelly kodak sepia. I put in Selenium (1:7 dilution, I think), wash, then bleach back the highlights and some midtones in the Sepia Bleach, wash, then "develop" in the sepia toner.

    The Selenium appears to "protect" the dark tones, so that, when you put in the Sepia bleach, they don't vanish, as they normally would. Then, when you tone in the Sepia toning solution, only the mid to highlights get the slightly brownish Sepia.

    My challenge has been figuring out just how long to leave in the Selenium, so as not to mask the later Sepia toning to much in the midtones and highlights. I've been using Oriental Seagul FB MC paper- I don't know if this is considered a relatively easy toning paper or not, but so far I have gotten some pleasing results.

    I'd like to hear any other comments related to Selenium/Sepia workflows and materials...

  2. #12
    Les McLean's Avatar
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    Fotospeed Odourless Sepia is a good versitile toner and offers some control over the final colour by using different quantities of an additive to achieve colours from yellow/brown to a deep rich warm brown, and it is odourless. In the US it is available from Freestyle. Speedibrews Porcelain Blue, a toner has already been mentioned, will produce a very delicate blue that I prefer to any other blue toner currently available but Speedibrews do not claim it to be archival. When toning for blue I prefer to use either Tetenal or Fotospeed gold toner which is archival.

    JeffD, if you want sepia highlights and selenium mid tones and shadows try a very dilute sepia bleach, 1 part bleach to 20 or 30 parts water. Leave the print in the bleach only until the very delicate highlights are affected, it could be for oly 20 or 30 seconds, wash and tone in sepia and after another wash tone in selenium. The highlights will not be affected by the selenium.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

  3. #13
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffD
    I wonder if many people Selenium tone, then Sepia. I use the smelly kodak sepia. I put in Selenium (1:7 dilution, I think), wash, then bleach back the highlights and some midtones in the Sepia Bleach, wash, then "develop" in the sepia toner.

    The Selenium appears to "protect" the dark tones, so that, when you put in the Sepia bleach, they don't vanish, as they normally would. Then, when you tone in the Sepia toning solution, only the mid to highlights get the slightly brownish Sepia.

    My challenge has been figuring out just how long to leave in the Selenium, so as not to mask the later Sepia toning to much in the midtones and highlights. I've been using Oriental Seagul FB MC paper- I don't know if this is considered a relatively easy toning paper or not, but so far I have gotten some pleasing results.

    I'd like to hear any other comments related to Selenium/Sepia workflows and materials...
    I do pretty much the opposite. I bleach partially, tone in sepia, and then tone in selenium. I have been happy with my results, but I am going to try your method too.

    Paul.

  4. #14
    fhovie's Avatar
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    A lot of toning is very paper dependent - I use selenium mostly. If you selenium tone and then bleach - some papers will really brown up - I am not a big fan of the sulfite toners - I like the look of precious metals.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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