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  1. #11

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    Kbr is Potassium Bromide. You want to make sure you mix the 10% dilution correctly too before using it. When i first mixed it, I did not bring the water volume up after adding the Potassium Bromide, so it was more then 10% (probably closer to 20%), so when I added it to the developer, it made my prints come out with very weak blacks and a gross green tone.

    Mixing amidol is VERY simple. I think you might be able to purchase a cheep digital scale from photography formulary, but I would still purchase each chemical yourself and mix it yourself. You are saving ALOT of money, getting ALOT more developer and you are learning at the same time! Make sure you mix them in the order that Michael has listed, and make sure each one is FULLY disolved before adding the next chemical.

    If you need any help, just let us know!

    Ryan McIntosh

  2. #12

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    Im not sure if your familar with mixing dry chemicals, so I borrowed this from Ansel Adams book "The Print". It relates to how to get the proper mix on your chemicals. I made this mistake when I first started, so I just dont want you doing the same thing!

    "For those not familiar with the preparation of percent solutions, a 10 percent solution contains 10 grams of a dry chemical in 100 ml of MIXED solution. NOTE that this is not the same as adding 10 grames of the chemical to 100ml water! Usually, the dry chemical is added to about 3/4ths of the water, and then after mixing it together, more water is added to make up the required total volume"

    Hope I helped.

    Ryan McIntosh

  3. #13

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    I assume you bought the kit already.

    If you got the 1 liter kit you do it all at once. I think the three liter kit can be broken up. The working solution of Amidol is very short lived in that you can't save if for the next night when you are finished.

    All of the above advice is good and when you finish off this kit you can buy the raw chemicals. Since I have a small child in the house and the darkroom is the bathroom kits make a little more sense storage wise for me and my situation.

    Good luck.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark
    I assume you bought the kit already.
    Nope - just looking into it. Guess that's a good thing, huh? I miss my own stuff for alt. process stuff so mixing a little isn't a big deal. It's just that with my inexperience, I thought the kit would be easier. But saving a little $$$ is never a bad thing

    Thanks all for the help!

  5. #15

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    You do not know how simple and easy it is to mix working amidol developer, its VERY simple and I know you will like it. What type of paper are you using? I use only AZO, which of course...amidol is amazing for, but I have also used Agfa enlarging paper and had better blacks, and better tonal range on the prints by using Amidol. Oriental Seagull also worked well for me in Amidol.

    Probably one of the best things, is using the waterbath development. Are you familar with that at all? It comes in handy if your printing on graded papers.

    Ryan McIntosh

  6. #16
    Digidurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanMcIntoshPhoto
    Probably one of the best things, is using the waterbath development. Are you familar with that at all? It comes in handy if your printing on graded papers.

    Ryan McIntosh
    No, I'm not familiar with the waterbath development technique. I'm just beginning my explorations with contact printing and I've heard lots of good things about AZO. A kind individual (from the AZO forum) sent me a couple of proofs and they were really beautiful so I was inspired to try it. A fellow APUGer put some AZO paper up for sale which is allowing me to experiment without such a large cash outlay.

    Those other papers you mentioned; Are you doing contact printing with those?

  7. #17
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    Water bath processing is a real attraction of amidol for reducing contrast. The basic technique that I use is to put the print in the developer for about 1/3 the total normal development time or until the image emerges, then transfer it gently to a plain water bath without agitating for the remaining development time. The developer will be exhausted quickly in the shadows and the highlights will continue to develop. Keep an eye on the print, and if you want more shadow density, you can transfer it back to the developer and then back to the water bath if you want, as many times as you like until the print looks right.

    Amidol has the curious property of developing from the bottom up rather than from the surface down, so it is particularly well suited to this technique, because the developer isn't quickly washed away in the water bath. It can work for film too.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  8. #18

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    Contacts

    Digi-a contact print is a contact print-no matter what paper is used. People are using AZO because it supposedly gives a 3D effect. But ANY paper will suffice. Remember that it is a 1:1 process-nothing is lost to enlarging. Please read the threads at the AZO forum because you must produce a very dense negative for grade 2. Enjoy the paper!!
    Best, Peter

  9. #19

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    Of course you can contact print on any paper, but why would you want to contact print on an enlarging paper, when there is AZO? Clearly you saw the results that AZO gives compaired to enlarging paper, so you know its worth it.

    Do you have grade 2 or grade 3 AZO? From experience, I know you will need grade 3 and use grade 3 the most. Since I have been contact printing and shooting 8x10, there has only been like TWO negatives that needed grade 2...everything else worked on grade 3. With using water bath development you can take a grade 3 paper down to grade two anyways!

    I recomend you purchase some grade 3 from Michael, or find someone on the board to sell you at least 20 sheets. I just say purchase the whole box because you WILL use it, that is for sure.

  10. #20
    Digidurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    Water bath processing is a real attraction of amidol for reducing contrast. The basic technique that I use is to put the print in the developer for about 1/3 the total normal development time or until the image emerges, then transfer it gently to a plain water bath without agitating for the remaining development time. The developer will be exhausted quickly in the shadows and the highlights will continue to develop. Keep an eye on the print, and if you want more shadow density, you can transfer it back to the developer and then back to the water bath if you want, as many times as you like until the print looks right.

    Amidol has the curious property of developing from the bottom up rather than from the surface down, so it is particularly well suited to this technique, because the developer isn't quickly washed away in the water bath. It can work for film too.
    Very interesting, David! Thanks for sharing the technique

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