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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,025
    Quote Originally Posted by dogzbum
    Thanks Tom, I devved the APX100 (EI80) for 8:15 @ 24degC and the SFX200 (EI200) for 10:00 @ 24degC. The APX100 is OK but some of the high contrast scenes look too contrasty. The SFX200 was way overdevved.
    We dont get highlights in the UK.

    I am now using up some old solution (which seems fine but I am away again overseas soon for another few months) and at 20 degs C, agitation for 60s then 10s every 60s for 9 mins @2:2:100, FP4 (@ISO 80) plus rollfilm looks pretty good.

    Did some HP5 (@320)plus at 1.5:1.5:100 as above and looked pretty good again at 14 mins. Shot in Kuwait so quite contrasty light.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee, Wi
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    3,242
    I have been using Pyrocat HD with stand development with Agfa 100 APX. I have not used a great deal of this film. I do not know what you use for an enlarger and what grade you have as a target. I would siggest you try the following:

    liter of water.
    4 ml of part A...Pyrocat HD
    3 grams of washing soda
    Stir well until mixed.

    Presoak film for 5 minutes in tap water with agigtation.

    Agitate for the first minute in the developer.

    Try an initial test of 40 minutes total at 20ºC
    I use vinegar + 4 parts of water for a stop bath.

    To save film during testing either at the start of the film or the end of the film
    shoot six test negatives with a couple of blanks in between the test and the rest of the film. Take an incident reading in the sunlit and shadowed areas so that you know how much lighting contrast was available and WRITE it down.

    Dry your negatives and make a test print before drawing any conclusions due to trying to judge the effects of the staining. You may get more film speed from doing this than you expect.
    If the film has too much or too little contrast for the type of print you like modify your development time for your next test.

    As an aside, I shoot Pan F+ that have been latensified with low light and develop as listed above. I find that for a 2 stop difference that 30 minutes total stand development produces a very sharp negative that prints nicely for me using condenser enlargement on graded paper...Obviously, I do not know what you like, the paper you are using or the enlargement system.

    God Almighty but Pyrocat HD is a wonderful developer...The inventor of this developer should be considered to be a King and should be encouraged to make negatives with the largest film available.
    Last edited by Claire Senft; 05-23-2005 at 06:04 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee, Wi
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    3,242
    PLEASE NOTE...I HAVE EDITED THE ABOVE POSTING. i HAD MISSTATED THE COMPOSITION OF THE INGREDIENT STRENGTH.

  4. #14
    dogzbum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    If you will let me know what kind of process,(s) you use to print I will provide some recommended development times for Fortepan 200, which I have tested and used. Unfortunately, I have no experience with Neopan or with APX10o or SFX200.

    Sandy

    I was wanting the Fortepan200 negs for salt or van dykes. What I really want though are silver gel times for grade 3 (diffuser enlarger) to enable me to make my own adjustments for the process type. (I currently do salt, VDB, cyano, gum bichromate, kalitype).

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