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  1. #11
    NikoSperi's Avatar
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    5'45" in HC110E (1:47) for Pan F at 40 EI. I like it.
    If you tone it down alot, it almost becomes bearable.

    - Walker Evans on using color

  2. #12

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    Thanks Jay, will be interesting to see. I probably have the opportunity to get 3-4 bottles of HC110 at a 50% discount, one of the reasons I'm asking about it. From what I've read, unopened bottle will last in the order of 4 years, maybe more. Also have other chemicals available, such as Ilford Rapid fixer, Kodak selenium toner. Anyone know how long these can last, unopened ?

  3. #13

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    HC-110 will last for decades unopened and perhaps just as long even if you do open it. I'm working on a bottle that was unopened (I think) for who knows how long and it works just fine.


    Quote Originally Posted by nextreme
    Thanks Jay, will be interesting to see. I probably have the opportunity to get 3-4 bottles of HC110 at a 50% discount, one of the reasons I'm asking about it. From what I've read, unopened bottle will last in the order of 4 years, maybe more. Also have other chemicals available, such as Ilford Rapid fixer, Kodak selenium toner. Anyone know how long these can last, unopened ?

  4. #14
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Adding to that, last week I finished off the last of a bottle of concentrate I opened in December 2003. Worked fine, "Good to the last drop" as Maxwell House used to say. I did subdivide it into 4 ounce bottles when I opened the big one, but I'm not sure that really matters; at one point, one of the small bottles, partly full, sat undisturbed for almost four months (during a period when I was moving instead of shooting and developing film).

    Makes me wish I'd gotten more than one 28 ounce bottle when a local camera store was closing and selling it off for half price.

    FWIW, I'd expect fixer concentrate to last pretty well unopened; there's really not much to the stuff (ammonium thiosulfate, sodium sulfite, and acetic acid). I recently used the last of a bottle that was opened and partially used about a year ago; seems to work fine, though there were a few crystals of something floating on the surface after mixing. Selenium toner is even simpler and ought to last approximately forever, even in an partially filled bottle.
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  5. #15
    craigclu's Avatar
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    I usually take a flash shot of the pantry next to my darkroom when I'm running a film test. The blown highlights in the Mason jars and the details in the labels make a consistent reference point and help confirm what I'm seeing in the step shots, too. Jay asked me to post some recent PanF shots that I sent him while checking out the HyperCat concentrate. I've had some flat toe trouble with FP4 and HP5 that wasn't so noticeable in the PanF but is still there. I'll be experimenting with a lesser amount of BZT to see if that's what's holding back the shadows. I'm very pleased with all of the other aspects of the results, though.

    The second shot is a 1200 dpi neg scan reduced to post and the other is a 4800 dpi scan of the center oyster cans to show details. My scanner isn't the best but even in the originals, the grain is very difficult to discern but the edge is still there for holding detail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails pantry2.JPG   pantry1.jpg  
    Last edited by craigclu; 05-19-2005 at 05:46 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Craig Schroeder

  6. #16

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    The best negative I ever got from Pan F for no/little grain was with Perceptol. This was with studio lighting indoors. Outdoors, YMMV.

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