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  1. #1
    jmdavis's Avatar
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    Houston, we have chemicals...

    OK,

    The Azo is here. The Amidol and pyrocat chemicals are here. The 8x10 and film are here. Wooo, or to be more 21st century WooT. Plan is to shoot film Fri, Sat, and Sunday, still life (with strobes) and outdoor.

    Any last minute advice from the contact printing gurus out there? This will be my maiden voyage with Azo, Amidol and Pyrocat. So while I expect to make a mess of something, I definitely want to hear from anyone who has good advice to offer.

    Mike

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmdavis
    OK,

    The Azo is here. The Amidol and pyrocat chemicals are here. The 8x10 and film are here. Wooo, or to be more 21st century WooT. Plan is to shoot film Fri, Sat, and Sunday, still life (with strobes) and outdoor.

    Any last minute advice from the contact printing gurus out there? This will be my maiden voyage with Azo, Amidol and Pyrocat. So while I expect to make a mess of something, I definitely want to hear from anyone who has good advice to offer.

    Mike
    So what grade AZO do you have? And what is your film?

    Hard to offer any advice without knowing these two things.

    Sandy

  3. #3
    jmdavis's Avatar
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    Good points Sandy.

    The Film is JandC pro 100. The Azo is grade 3.

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    A word of advise from someone using similiar materials...be careful! You'll have too much fun and be tempted to skip work on Monday. Have a ball.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdef
    Mike,

    J&C Pro 100 is a very capable film, but it has been known to develop pinholes in the emulsion. The general consensus is that processing temps should be kept at or below 68F, and a water bath should be used in place of a stop bath. Good luck and happy shooting.

    Jay
    I have never used a water bath in lieu of a stop bath before - what's the timing for it? Thanks!

  6. #6
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    If you do your film tests with the water bath, run the film as your numbers indicate. I don't know about going from an acid stop to a water bath. If you have a step wedge, just do two sheets of film and look at the difference (if any) between the highlights to get a feel for it. Probably a small percentage. tim

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digidurst
    I have never used a water bath in lieu of a stop bath before - what's the timing for it? Thanks!
    I've found it okay to use 2-3 complete changes of water with fifteen seconds of continuous agitation in each -- though I've used the Pro 100 only in 120, not in sheets, I wouldn't expect any difference. It's the same emulsion, just coated on a different base.
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  8. #8
    jmdavis's Avatar
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    Thanks to all.

    I think that I'm going to use a diluted stop as opposed to water. From reading Sandy's posts it would appear that this should be relatively safe. 20 degrees C is my standard processing temp, though maintaining that in the hot Southern US summer will require AC and a water bath for the chemicals. I've needed the AC anyway, so it's not an unexpected expense.

    More info if anyone is interested. I will be using the JandC tubes for development. I could also use brush dev, which I've done with 4x5 (for practice).

    I now have a working light integrator, so I may attempt to use a 13w blb for azo at some point. Right now, I will be using a 120 or 150w R40. That's about it.

    Mike

  9. #9
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    If you have to use stop bath - make it really weak -
    Use gloves - Nitrile are the better ones - pyrocatechin goes right into you if it gets on your skin (you will taste it) - work with the powder outdoors or in a garage - wear a mask - the dust is very fine - use the same precaution for amidol. - both compounds stain like crazy - Pyrocat (bath A) will penetrate some plastics - like the General accordian chemical bottles.

    If you return your amidol developer to a plastic bottle and squeeze all the air out - It will last a month and will develop a lot of paper - even non-azo papers - I know all the pros toss it after each printing session but ... I am an amateur.

    If your print is too contrasty - use a water bath - one of the things amidol does real well - contrast control! grade 3 AZO has a much shorter scale than grade 2 - so don't over develop your negs - Use stop bath with amidol - It is the only time I use it.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  10. #10
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Take it one step at a time Mike, and not many the first time. Take the pictures, develop the film, make the prints. Try to hold back the excitement and work purposely.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

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