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  1. #1

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    motorcycle engines chrome etc how?

    Anyone ever photographed motor cycle engines/parts (B&W), any tips on film/dev lens/filter choice and lighting most welcome. I have the option of 120 or 35mm format or both. Thanks in advance, Bogey

  2. #2

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    what is your setup, on the bike, off the bike, natural lighting, flash or lights?

    Paul

  3. #3
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    The key thing with reflective objects is that you're photographing what is reflected in them. Whatever kind of lighting you use, the basic idea is to control reflections with white cards or paper and then use black cards or strips to add modeling to the object while you're looking through the camera.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #4

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    The ONLY person I think you should talk too is Noseoil (Tim Curry) on the board here. I have seen many of his 8x10 AZO contact prints of motorcycles and they are amazing! He has also done smaller format too. Either private message him, or wait till he finds this thread and replys...because I am sure he will.

    Ryan

  5. #5

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    If the lighting is bright, I'd grab XP2 with all that chrome around.

  6. #6
    Andy K's Avatar
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    I seem to remember francesco or someone did a fantastic shot of some chromework which was posted on these forums some months ago. Anyone remember it?


    -----------My Flickr-----------
    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  7. #7

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    All the suggestions so far are good - especially quenching and filling using cards. In a pinch you can also use a dulling spray on real bad areas. It wipes off no problem, but if you have some kind of YUP poseur, he'll probably freak out. (Is it your bike?)

  8. #8

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    [COLOR=DarkRed]I would also recommend polishing the chrome as thoroughly as possible. The illusion of a liquid mirror that chrome can create, is shattered by surface grime, corrosion, or other defects. Best of luck,[/COLOR]

    Good point. Invest in a tube of Autosol, it'll cost you about 2 quid, if that. Oh and before yoi go buffing up somebodies chrome, make sure it is generally good condition, if it looks a bit flakey best leave it alone. If it looks fine get stuck in with the autosol and a soft cloth. And only use the autosol on metal parts!

  9. #9
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Dr. Frankenfruter here

    OK Ryan, I guess the cat's out of the bag. No, I'm not allowed to wear fishnet stockings at work.

    Efke 25 at asa 12 or 6, PMK pyro at 7:00 @ 70f, 15 second agitation cycles. Use a tripod. Shoot stopped down to increase "star effects" from specular highlights. Shoot low and slow. Clear blue skies are best (sorry, UK not always cooperative).

    Couple of examples...

    tim, aka, Quido Fartori, Copious Mucose, THC

  10. #10
    noseoil's Avatar
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    First shot, 35mm, Efke 25 @ asa 12, PMK, Ilford MGIV, glossy, 5x7
    Second shot, 4x5, Efke 25 @ asa 6, Pyrocat HD, azo
    Third shot, 35mm, Efke 25 @ asa 12, PMK, Ilford MGIV, postcard stock

    Sorry, all the shots were taken in full sunlight without filters, lights, cards or other aids (except a tripod).

    P.S. The shot Francesco posted was scanned and posted by him for me. It is the first shot in this series of three. I didn't have a scanner and the one I have doesn't work too well, so these shots aren't as good on a monitor as the prints. As always, we owe Francesco a debt or gratitude for his kindness and consideration.

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