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  1. #1

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    Tri-x @ 1250 using Diafine.

    I've been a big fan of Diafine, which I use for Agfa APX 100 and Ilford Pan-f. I would like to use Tri-x for low light shootings. Is ISO 1250 a good speed to use on Tri-x ?? Plus and minuses ?? How are the negatives processed on Diafine for this film. ??

    Thanks much.

  2. #2
    Eric Jones's Avatar
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    You process it just like any other film. 2 minutes - Bath A : 2 minutes - Bath B and then into the fixer. I rate TXP-320 @ 1200 ASA and I rate TXT-400 @ 1600. If you need the speed there are no minuses IMHO. If you print traditionally, using a Grade 4 paper/filter usually results in nice looking prints.

  3. #3
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Better read the directions. That's *3* minutes in each bath, not two. I usually rate the ISO 400 Tri-X at EI 1600, but some do prefer 1250 or even 1000, claiming improved shadow detail. And it's still a good idea to use a water rinse (no acid stop, please, due to the carbonate based Bath B) between the developer and fixer, t9o prevent carry over from shortening fixer life (though the carry over is much less with Diafine than with most others, because the developer in the emulsion is almost entirely exhausted in the three minutes spent in Bath B).

    Some find the negatives "flat" but I don't see a lot of difference (in scanning -- don't have my darkroom set up to print yet) between Diafine negatives and those processed in HC-110 to what I consider "normal" contrast.

    Be prepared to see some magic -- Tri-X is the film for which Diafine was created. Everything else is just along for the ride...
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  4. #4

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    My time on Diafine is 3 1/2 minutes for both A and B solutions. I will shoot a roll of Tri-x, 1st half would be @ 1250 and 2nd half @1600.

    Thanks for the information !!

  5. #5

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    Be prepared to see some magic -- Tri-X is the film for which Diafine was created. Everything else is just along for the ride...

    This sums up Diafine perfectly. I've used it for a lot of years and Tri-X is about all I shoot anymore, although HP5+ also does very well in Diafine.

    In the conventional darkroom, Diafine sometimes produces flat prints unless you up the paper contrast grade. However, in this digital darkroom age, the lower contrast negatives that Diafine produce makes for some superbly easy to scan frames. Long tonal range and low grain for the speed you are getting.

    Great stuff.

    Tom

    PS: I use 3 to 3.5 minutes in each bath, water rinse then fix. It is not critical. Do NOT presoak your film.

  6. #6
    Chaska's Avatar
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    I use it at 1250 in miniature and medium format, great for indoor without a flash!

  7. #7

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    I heard just good about Diafine.
    Today I tried with 3 different films in one tank:
    120 roll Tri-X, 35mm Ilford 400 Delta pro and 35mm Ilford Pan F
    I could not get what you enthusists/experts are talking about.
    Probably I am missing something. Would like to help, please?

    Dilution: 1 gallon each. and used at full strength for both A and B
    Developing: 3min + 3min and wash before fixing
    Hypo clear 1min, and wash about 15min

    Kodak Tri-X became milky and flat,
    Ilford 400 Delta pro is also flat and the film base is not clear
    Ilford Pan F is perhaps the most acceptable but looks contrasty and
    far from my negatives I usually get in Microdol-X.

    What do you think? Thanks for any tip, yency

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by yency
    I heard just good about Diafine.
    Today I tried with 3 different films in one tank:
    120 roll Tri-X, 35mm Ilford 400 Delta pro and 35mm Ilford Pan F
    I could not get what you enthusists/experts are talking about.
    Probably I am missing something. Would like to help, please?

    Dilution: 1 gallon each. and used at full strength for both A and B
    Developing: 3min + 3min and wash before fixing
    Hypo clear 1min, and wash about 15min

    Kodak Tri-X became milky and flat,
    Ilford 400 Delta pro is also flat and the film base is not clear
    Ilford Pan F is perhaps the most acceptable but looks contrasty and
    far from my negatives I usually get in Microdol-X.

    What do you think? Thanks for any tip, yency

    How long did you fix the film for? It sounds like you didn't fix the film long enough, if your getting milky negs.

    Diafine, according to many users, isn't for all films. In fact, some films it is reported to be downright awful with.

  9. #9
    titrisol's Avatar
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    RE-FIX
    RE-FIX!!!
    You fixer maybe exhausted, you need to fix those again!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by yency
    I heard just good about Diafine.
    Today I tried with 3 different films in one tank:
    120 roll Tri-X, 35mm Ilford 400 Delta pro and 35mm Ilford Pan F
    I could not get what you enthusists/experts are talking about.
    Probably I am missing something. Would like to help, please?

    Dilution: 1 gallon each. and used at full strength for both A and B
    Developing: 3min + 3min and wash before fixing
    Hypo clear 1min, and wash about 15min

    Kodak Tri-X became milky and flat,
    Ilford 400 Delta pro is also flat and the film base is not clear
    Ilford Pan F is perhaps the most acceptable but looks contrasty and
    far from my negatives I usually get in Microdol-X.

    What do you think? Thanks for any tip, yency
    Mama took my APX away.....

  10. #10

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    Feb 2004
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    I'll refix them, you are probably right. Thanks a lot, yency



 

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