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  1. #1
    realitysandwich's Avatar
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    PMK Pyro and Jobo Rotary Processing

    has anyone had any experience with processing film with PMK Pyro in a Jobo processer?

  2. #2

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    you ought to do a search of the archives using the word "Jobo" lots of info there.

    I'm of the conclusion that PMK does not work well in a Jobo. I spent quite some time varying development techniques trying to get it to work. Clear areas such as blue sky will always show processing streaks.

    in a Jobo, use Pyrocat HD, instead, and you won't have a problem.
    Take care,
    Tom

  3. #3
    nze
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    Hello

    you'd better use Rollo Pyro create by harald leban, there is an article on the Jobo web page. If you prefer to use PMK , You may use 2 bath of Pmk and change at half developing time. you may also add a sequestring agent as EDTA.

    At last I think that Pyrocat HD will easier to use in totary processing.

    regards
    Chris Nze
    me Apug Portfolio
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by realitysandwich
    has anyone had any experience with processing film with PMK Pyro in a Jobo processer?
    Yes, I've done it. My favorite method is to increase the amount of the A solution. I forget exactly how much. You can also dump out the solution half way through development and ad fresh developer, or you can inject the drum with nitrogen or argon before development.

    I don't use PMK anymore, though. I found the highlight compression to much with the films and VC paper that I used.

    -Peter

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    I've used PMK for sheet film in a 3005 drum and found that I needed to use an alkaline presoak to avoid streaks and other processing irregularities. The presoak I used was the B solution of PMK. No troubles after that, but like some other folks here, I've moved to using a different developer.
    My Verito page

    Anyone can appreciate a fine print. But it takes a real photographer to appreciate a fine negative.

  6. #6
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    I have been using Pyo in a Jobo system for 7-10 years now . There is a learning curve indeed. but I totally believe in this method.

  7. #7
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    It works for me, 45, 57, and 810. Been at it for over 10 years in a Jobo. I don' t use a Jobo base, though, I have a slower one. I start the film with a water presoak, filling the drum completely full of water. This I displace with nitrogen gas. Then I start the developer with just the part B in half the water for 2 minutes. Finally, I add the part A in its half of the water. The developer cycle has a cork in it to keep the nitrogen in.

    It is very even, even bald skies are even. Developer comes out of the drum as clear and lightly colored as it went in.
    Watch for Loose Gravel

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    If you go to the unblinkingeye web site and printout and read Sandy King's article on Pyrocat HD he has comment to make about PMK vs Pyrocat Hd in regard to rotary processing. I highly recommend the article to anyone who has any interest in pyro development. A very good read indeed.

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    L. Gravel's comment prompts me to add that I've only used the Jobo drum with their manual roller base and not with the whole Jobo processor.
    My Verito page

    Anyone can appreciate a fine print. But it takes a real photographer to appreciate a fine negative.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by realitysandwich
    has anyone had any experience with processing film with PMK Pyro in a Jobo processer?
    I used PMK as my primary developer for many years and know it very well. There is no question but that it can be made to work with rotary processing but it is definitely not the best choice in a staining developer for this application, even for silver printing. If you are developing for alternative processes PMK makes even less sense to me, either in trays or with rotary.

    Of the staining developers that are available commercially I would strongly recommend either Rollo Pyro and Pyrocat-HD for rotary processing. If you want to mix your own I would also recommend the Rollo-TEA formula, which I introduced about a year ago on this forum, which is a slight variation of Rollo Pyro mixed in TEA, or Jay De Fehr's 510 Pyro. You should be able to find the formulas for Rollo TEA or 510 Pyro with a search of the forum archives.

    With any staining developer I would also recommend that you reduce the rate of rotation to the slowest speed possible in order to keep B+F stain down.

    Sandy King

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