Well, I developed one roll with stock dilution and reduced time by 30 seconds from normal ISO400 time. Results look just fine for me.
But, this leads us into new question: I can "read" the negative so that I realize if the negative is underexposed or overexposed and in clear situation I can figure out the dynamics (shots taken in very contrasty light). But how can I know the "real" contrast, shadow detail etc. by using my scanner??? Usually when all scanner settings are "neutral" the shot looks nothing like the negative but by adjusting the scanner settings the image often gets fantastic look. So, usually I shoot ISO400 and keep that developing time same - by adjusting I get the look that I want. But is it possible that I am developing "wrong" and could get a lot better results otherwise (=to get into that same result WITHOUT needing to use editing)? I hope this is not too stupid question!
Attached image is from that previously mentioned roll.