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  1. #21

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    Efke 100, Efke 25 and TMAX 400 TMY. As expected, The TMY required a longer clearing (and thus fixing) time than the Efke. I used 1 fluid ounce (30 ml) 60% Ammonium Thiosulfate from Artcraft.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  2. #22

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    It occured to me that I should add some additional information.

    I am fixing one roll of 120 film with 1 fluid ounce (approximately 30 ml) of 60% Ammonium Thiosulfate added to about 470 ml of water (or dilute developer).

    I have not fine-tuned the amount of fixer/roll like Dan has. I know that 1 fluid ounce is more than I need.

    If I am developing 2 120 rolls in the same tank, I add 2 fluid ounces of concentrated fixer (60% Ammonium Thiosulfate) to a sufficient volume of liquid to cover both rolls of film.

    Ilfofix or Kodafix concentrates can be used the same way - you will need to test to determine the volume of concentrate required per roll of film and the fixing time for each film type.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  3. #23

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    [QUOTES=mhv]
    "Ok, it's exactly for that that I lack a proper procedure.
    I would base my minimum amount on a calculation from the
    manufacturer's recommendation, but experimentally speaking,
    what can I use to determine if my fixer is already
    exhausted after a roll?"

    There is really nothing to it EXCEPT if you intend to test
    entire unexposed rolls. Then you'll likely care to have some
    answers after a roll or two.

    I have considered this alternative approach. Rather than
    totaly unexposed give instead some minimal exposure. That
    would mean loading the camera etc, etc. Also, going through
    a developer the film may pick up some chemical fog. That
    would interfere with an evaluation of the fixer's effect.
    So I'm back to unexposed rolls for testing fixer.

    As for your testing I think a clear untinted short film
    strip will do. I may even adopt that method. How do you
    manage the short strips? Into the dark with scissors
    and light tight box?

    Like I said I've not tested A. Thio. for the least needed. The
    amount of A. Thio. I use, 20ml for a 120 Pan F+, is based on
    the amount of S. Thio. needed. I did test for that.

    "BTW, why skipping the stop? Does it exhaust fixer as well?"

    In one word, FRESH. Fresh very dilute fixer each roll. Also
    there is no need to maintain over a long period of time the
    acidity of an acid fixer. Most off the shelf varieties are acid.

    I'm comfortable thinking of a highly dilute fixer, acid or
    alkaline, as being a water stop. Stop or Go, any developer
    is very soon very very dilute. Those high speed H2O
    molecules go to work right away. Dan

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