Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,766   Posts: 1,516,408   Online: 997
      
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    jimgalli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Tonopah Nevada
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    3,397
    Blog Entries
    2
    Images
    155

    Question for chemistry wizards....

    I'm out of TF-4 and Kodak Rapid......but I have about 5 pounds of crystaline sodium thiosulfate. I've been mixing about 100g with 600ml of H2O and using it as a one shot then eliminating. Am I compromising my film. Just hypo and water.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  2. #2
    ann
    ann is offline

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    2,858
    Images
    26
    no, however , i believe an acid stop bath is recommended with plain hypo.

    I don't rmember the exact measurements, but am sure ole or someone else will pop up with more specifics.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,879
    Images
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by jimgalli
    I'm out of TF-4 and Kodak Rapid......but I have about 5 pounds of crystaline sodium thiosulfate. I've been mixing about 100g with 600ml of H2O and using it as a one shot then eliminating. Am I compromising my film. Just hypo and water.
    Jim, for fixing films (and paper), take a look at Ole's Fixer Recipe. I use a water rinse with this fixer - no stop bath.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=38

    This gives you a good fixer that uses your sodium thiosufate plus some ammonium ion for fixing efficiency. You can use it as a one-shot.

    You can also substitute 50 grams of ammonium sulfate for the 40 grams of ammonium chloride (if you don't have the ammonium chloride). If you don't have either chemical, Artcraft will fix you up (bad pun).

    If you are fixing Azo paper, sodium thiosulfate and water works fine. I use an acetic acid stop bath with it.
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Italia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,680
    At 100 grams to 600ml the only down side is the amount of hypo you're using. You've got plenty.

    TF-2 is only 250grams to 1litre of water. But it's not one shot.

    I think Adam's plain hypo was about 250 grams to the litre to.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Woonsocket, RI USA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    2,725
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson
    Jim, for fixing films (and paper), take a look at Ole's Fixer Recipe. I use a water rinse with this fixer - no stop bath.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=38
    I just took a look at that, but I'd like clarification/confirmation: The formula specifies 20cl of sodium metaborate 10% solution. Is that correct -- cl (centiliters), rather than ml (mililiters)?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,879
    Images
    11
    It's Ole's recipe - I'll PM him and ask him to verify it.

    A centiliter is defined as a unit of volume equal to one hundredth of a liter or ten milliliters.
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Willamette Valley, Oregon
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,684
    [QUOTES=Nick Zentena]
    "At 100 grams to 600ml the only down side is the
    amount of hypo you're using. You've got plenty."

    That's true, "plenty". I've many times used 22.5 grams
    penta for Pan F+. That 22.5 grams will clear an entirely
    unexposed roll.

    If testing for a minimum is not to be done then I suggest
    30 grams for slower speed films and 40 should do for any
    others. Any T or D film may need the higher amount.

    For one-shot use there is no point in adding preservatives
    or ph modifiers. The ph of sodium thiosulfate runs just
    shy of 7. S. Thio. is a very handy, quick fix to mix;
    fresh fix each use. Allow time for it to warm. Dan

  8. #8
    jimgalli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Tonopah Nevada
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    3,397
    Blog Entries
    2
    Images
    155
    Thanks everyone.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  9. #9
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    Ole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bergen, Norway
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    9,280
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by srs5694
    I just took a look at that, but I'd like clarification/confirmation: The formula specifies 20cl of sodium metaborate 10% solution. Is that correct -- cl (centiliters), rather than ml (mililiters)?

    Yes, that's correct. But it is also fairly uncritical - anything between 5 and 30 cl gives about the same result. I found out that I used about 20cl, so that's what I wrote down. Sometmes I drop it altogether, for pH closer to neutral. I like having it in when using pyrocatechin developers as metaborate seems to have an added "stop-effect" on pyrocat.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin