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  1. #1

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    Edge Effects with TMAX 100 sheet film

    Hello everyone. I've been shooting TMAX100 4x5 Developing in TMAX RS 1:9 at 75 in a Jobo CPP2. I'd like to know if anyone here has experimented with tray development for the purpose of achieving "sharper" edge effects with this film --(consistent with more dilute developers and less agitation.) I'm open to any developer recommendations etc. I'm pleased with the tonalities I'm achieving with my existing combo but would like to kick up my sharpness a notch.

    Thanks for your help!

    Bob

  2. #2

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    T Max films require lots of agitation to maintain uniform density in even toned areas.

    I would pick a smaller format and a more conventional film such as tri x or one of the Efke emulsions.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobbysandstrom
    Hello everyone. I've been shooting TMAX100 4x5 Developing in TMAX RS 1:9 at 75 in a Jobo CPP2. I'd like to know if anyone here has experimented with tray development for the purpose of achieving "sharper" edge effects with this film [...]
    Bob
    Bob, I've never achieved edge effects with a T-Grain film, and with different film/developer and subjects that yield edge-effects, the edges don't survive enlargement, at least on my setup.

    Choose your subject carefully. Many subjects don't have the adjacencies that produce apparent edge-effects.

    That said, I sure would like to see some genuine edge effects which create accutance (which can be seen) at normal viewing distance.

  4. #4

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    Some films show greater edge effects with developer dilution and minimal agitation than others, and tmx shows less change than many other films. However, that doesn't mean that it can't be done. Just for fun, I once used stand development with FX-1 and 35mm TMX. I agitated continously for the first two mintutes and then let the film sit in the vertical tank for an hour. This gave results remarkablly different in 8x10 enlargements from 35mm negatives than my usual Xtol 1+ 3 in a Jobo developing routine. The semi-stand development with FX-1 technique gave low contrast, large grain, and very prominent edge effects. This isn't the best look for a number of subjects, but for some it's just right.

    For 4x5 use you might try one of the tray holders, such as the ones used by Howard Bond and John Sexton and others. These holders are usually sheets of plastic modified to hold sheets of film face up. One then puts the "slosher" into the developer and moves it around for agitation.

    Or you could simply develop one sheet at a time face up in the bottom of a small tray. I'd try something like FX-2 1+1 or FX-1, agitate continuously for the first two minutes, and then leave the negative sit undisturbed for 45 minutes. You'll probably gain a little film speed.

  5. #5

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    I use the Sexton compensated development approach with Tmax 100. Since I always expose my film in pairs and develop seperately - I have room to experiment with the second sheet when the first is "nailed." I did so recently. I use the RS 75 1+19 solution for compensated and at the end of the agitation, I decided to leave the sheet in the developer for 10 minutes in "stand" mode. It was horribly blotchy and uneven in development. Hardly conclusive but my first experiment was not real encouraging.

  6. #6
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    TMX has always struck me as a film that wouldn't benefit much from pyro, but pyro does produce edge effects, so you might try it, if that's what you're looking for. Pyrocat-HD, Rollo Pyro, and PMK+ are versions that are popular among those who do drum processing.

    For more dramatic effects, you might try unsharp masking.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  7. #7
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Tmax 100 developed in Rodinal does give some better edge sharpness.

    Diluted at 1:25 it's too contrasty, ok though for N+1 development, so I've always used it at 3:100 for N ans N-1, diluting at 1:50 for N-2

    Ian

  8. #8
    Amund's Avatar
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    TMX is wonderfully sharp stand developed in Pyrocat HD.

  9. #9

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    I have used pyrocat an exactol lux for the sheet. You get far better sharpness but still nothing close to trad films or even the deltas. I prefer Acros by far, which also comes in packet form. Could not get a greyscale I liked from TMAX100 in pyrocat (or anything else). Will try Xtol next, forget about acutance and try to get a greyscale that has some life to it (only cos I have 50 packets remaining). My suggestion would be to use another film altogether, as acutance and Tmax100 dont naturally go together. Fp4 plus in sheet is far crisper.

  10. #10
    Huib's Avatar
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    Bob,

    TMAX100 and 4x5: the enlargementfactors of 4x5 negatieves for prints is nomally that small that edge effects of developers on grain is also not visible.

    If you think that you lack sharpness: check your optical pathways (camera and enlarger optics and your focusing).

    As you know: there is a big difference in real-sharpness and perceived-sharpness.

    If you want to boost perceived sharpness you could experiment with using Unsharp Masks to print a negative.

    Huib

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