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  1. #151
    vpwphoto's Avatar
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    I am about to dunk my first monobath ever... 5x7 Arista EDu-100 shot of a doggie...
    Stay tuned the Developer is "cooling" to 75. I still think this is daff, but seing it has some history and isn't some "steam punk-hipster" idea of the day, I'm diving in.

  2. #152
    vpwphoto's Avatar
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    We'll that was a strange experience, but great way to do sheet film.
    Results... I shot a black and white dog on a white background. They look to be 1 stop under, so rather than 100 I'll rate as 50 next time, I may not have compensated enough for bellows extension either.
    Different smells in the darkroom, with the NH3 in the air.

    My daughter came in the studio... 2 more 5x7 sheets shot and developed in less than 20 minutes. These look printable.
    Still a little thin... gonna rate this at 25ish

    Oh what I am doing..
    Tray almost no agitation @ 75F
    15ml of hc110
    50ml NH3 household strength
    10ml Ilford rapid fix concentrate
    H2O to make 250ml

    I do 2 5x7 sheets and toss out... anyone go 3 or 4?
    Last edited by vpwphoto; 12-01-2012 at 03:35 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: more info

  3. #153
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    IDK where you got the formula, but I would not use Ammonia in a developer for a modern film. Even the fix you use should be ammonia free. Most people do not know or use this simple guideline.

    Ammonia is a fogging agent that also speeds the fixing reaction. It is also a strong base that raises the pH.

    PE

  4. #154
    mhcfires's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    IDK where you got the formula, but I would not use Ammonia in a developer for a modern film. Even the fix you use should be ammonia free. Most people do not know or use this simple guideline.

    Ammonia is a fogging agent that also speeds the fixing reaction. It is also a strong base that raises the pH.

    PE
    Could you use Sodium Carbonate as a strong base rather than the Ammonia?
    Michael Cienfuegos


    If you don't want to stand behind our troops, please feel free to stand in front of them.

  5. #155
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Monobath Developers

    Most of the formulas I've looked at use sodium hydroxide, which is no longer available at the grocery store, but can be obtained from suppliers of bulk chemicals.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  6. #156

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    The origin of the monobath formula is Oct. 9, 2004, Donald Qualls posted, in rec.photo.darkroom, the following description of a monobath based on HC-110. It also appears on the covington hc-110 website.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  7. #157
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    I agree with David. Also, use Sodium Thiosulfate instead of rapid fixers which use Ammonium Thiosulfate.

    See the original formulas on page 1 of this thread.

    PE

  8. #158

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    The problem with monobaths is that they must be adjusted for each and every film in order for them to produce useful results. This more than anything else led to their disuse. The Poloroid process of course does not have this problem since the film and monobath are designed for each other.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  9. #159
    vpwphoto's Avatar
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    I got it from the new 55 site.
    http://new55project.blogspot.com/
    So PE what do you recommend for EDU Ultra? My negs turned out thin...

  10. #160
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Try a developer from page 1 of this thread.

    PE

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