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Thread: Kodak HC-110

  1. #1

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    Kodak HC-110

    I have a chance to pick up 3qts. real cheap (free) from a mate of mine who is relocating to Australia. In doing a bit of research I have found that it was a favorite of Ansel Adams so it seems like a good choice. I am trying to standardize my film developing and HC-110 looks like something I can stick with for all my Tri-x work.
    Before I take the plunge I felt it necessary to ask fellow APUG members their experience using said developer. My FP4 and PanF will continue to be run through Rodinal.
    Thank You,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Dan Henderson's Avatar
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    I have used HC110 with HP5 and Delta 100 exclusively for 1 1/2 years with great results. The syrup seems to last forever. Rather than follow the directions, I make my working solutions directly from the concentrate just before use. I just went to "dilution H" (1:63 dilution, developed for twice the time) to counteract too-short development times with Jobo agitation and reciprocity compensation. Still works great. I get the nice, snappy negs I prefer, and grain that is often hard to find to focus on.


    web site: Dan Henderson, Photographer.com

    blog: https://danhendersonphotographer.wordpress.com/

    I am not anti-digital. I am pro-film.

  3. #3
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    If you have developed TX in, say D76, you might find the results with HC110 a little grainier and slightly more contrasty. I love the stuff for both TX and HP5+. Your mileage may vary.
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  4. #4
    ann
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    we have used this developer for over 30 years.

    be careful with the times from Kodak with their new trix as they are not correct.
    for some reason the new times for sol. b is less than 5 minutes which is not a good thing.

    Some from Kodak has admitted there was a mistake, probably a simple typo, but will not admit it in print.

    We and many others continued to use our old times with no problems. On the other hand, the old times for trix where 7.5 mintues, which in our lab was too much. We have been using 6 to 6 1/2 minutes for the standard starting times. The difference is based on individual equipment as these times are a result of testing.

  5. #5

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    Good Morning, Mike,

    I always have some HC-110 handy. It seems to work well, or at least adequately, with almost any film. Dan indicated the key points, long life and ease of preparation directly from the concentrate. One additional plus is that it's relatively economical.

    Konical

  6. #6
    Lee L's Avatar
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    Mike,

    See http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ for a good overview of HC-110. Our own Donald Qualls also uses it, often at high dilutions, so hopefully he'll post, or you can search APUG and the net with Google for Qualls and HC-110.

    Lee

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    dphphoto's Avatar
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    Hi Mike: HC110 has been my favorite film developer for over 25 years. As mentioned above the trick is NOT to use dilution B. I used dilutions E (3/4 of B) and H (1/2 of B) with 4X5 and 8X10 TMX and TMY with fine results. I've switched to JandC 200, and again HC110 works excellently.
    I mix directly from the syrup. If you do that be very careful when measuring, and make sure you get all the syrup into your working solution.
    HC110 was also a favorite of Brett Weston.
    dphphoto

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    raucousimages's Avatar
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    I use it for expansion developement on sheet film. I have had shots with a range of up to nine stops and still kept detail in the clouds but the dark shadows tend to block up.

    Mix 1:128 @ 70f for 28 min on trix (other films differ)
    adgitate for one min then adgitate VIOLENTLY for 5 sec. every five min.
    DIGITAL IS FOR THOSE AFRAID OF THE DARK.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by dphphoto
    I mix directly from the syrup. If you do that be very careful when measuring, and make sure you get all the syrup into your working solution.
    The trick is to pour the water into the container first, then top it off with the desired amount of HC-110. That way, the viscous liquid doesn't get a chance to stick to the sides/bottom of the container.

    Nice stuff, especially favored by old LF photographers like Ansel.

  10. #10
    ann
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    be sure to stir.

    This is really don't a diffiuclt product to use. Seems so when discussed in writing. The trick is to be sure the container that you used to measure the developer in is cleared of any residue.
    Be consistent in your technique, which is true of all processes

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