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  1. #21

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    May 2005
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    Southern CA.
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    [COLOR=DarkOliveGreen]
    Quote Originally Posted by Guillaume Zuili
    I bought one set but never used it. If you like it, stay on with Photospeed and play with the dilutions. How was the workshop ? Did you try different dilutions then ?
    Guillaume

    The workshop was great as was Tim Rudman (hosted by FreeStyle) We used one dilution just can't remember just now. I've done 2 workshops and used the FotoSpeed both times. I plan on playing with the dilutions once I get my darkroom set up.... soon I hope. Gota get his book!!! He is THE MAN
    Between the two workshops did get to try quite a few papers. See BOC's post above. But really need to play with the the dilutions to get some different results... Also the graded paper suggested..... can't wait!

    Next work shop will have to be one of his advanced ones, or just the book... He mentioned sooo many other posibilities just not enough time in one day. He did say it was all in the book.

    Beckie out[/COLOR]
    [COLOR=DarkOliveGreen]
    [FONT=Palatino Linotype]Remember each day as a blessing, be grateful and live happy![/FONT][/COLOR]

  2. #22

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    [COLOR=DarkOliveGreen]Rudman
    http://www.alternativephotography.co...im_rudman.html

    Rudman's upcoming book
    http://www.worldbookoflithprinting.com/home.html [/COLOR]

    -Beckie
    [COLOR=DarkOliveGreen]
    [FONT=Palatino Linotype]Remember each day as a blessing, be grateful and live happy![/FONT][/COLOR]

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Rhine valley
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    Dear Salvo,

    I think Forte Polygrade is more of a cooltone paper. Cooltone papers tent not give the typical yellow colour. You might try a warmer paper. I use cooltone combined with gold toner for a cold look, colour turns toward blue.

    The money spend on Tim Rudmans book is very well spend.

    If contrast is too high usually exposure was too short, expose for colour - develop for blacks, as Tim said in his book. I usually take the normal printing time and mulitply by eight (= 3 stops). When the developer gets older I sometimes just expose 200 or 300 secs at 2.8 for a 12*16'' print, which would take 30-45 secs at 5.6 as a regular print.

    Some developers or papers work better at higher temps like 30°C, e.g. Agfa at that temp gives a rather look, you will not get at 20°C.

    If developing times are too short use a higher dilution AND add some old brown, which is how used lith developer is called.
    Personally I use Champion Novalith (Made in UK) 50 ml A and 50 ml B to 1 litre, or 2 fl. oz. A plus 2 fl. oz. B to 2 pints. I mix this 3 hours before printing and just let it age in the tray.

    Health risk statement: Lith printing can be addictive!

    Kindest regards,

    Wolfram
    Colour? We can always use an airbrush later...

  4. #24
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Apr 2004
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    Toronto-Ontario
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    Hi There

    As others have suggested you need to expose longer, and as well I would preflash the paper to help lower the contrast.Your pull times are ok , just not enough exposure on the paper.

  5. #25
    neotokio's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    Is difficult to use Moersch Easylith Kit?
    I want to buy it for starting lith printing
    Thank you very much

  6. #26

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    Jul 2005
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    @neotokio:
    Moersch's Easylith kit is just what it says it is, easy lith. You'll have to know the basics of lith printing though, but that's knowledge easily gathered as you can see from this thread.
    Have been using the Easylith kit with great pleasure the last year. It's not "complete" in the sense that when you're a little bit more advanced, you'll want to have some more control over the prints by using extra chemicals - but those are all included in Moersch's 'full' lith kit I think.
    Good luck and have fun.

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