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  1. #21
    MurrayMinchin's Avatar
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    Man-O-Man...was I ever WRONG!

    Quote Originally Posted by MurrayMinchin
    I don't know if I can live with the loss in accutance...it's really hard to describe, but with a 120ml lens the edges of raindrops on a surface 15 feet away at 11x14 print size with the HC-110 negatives are crisp, and the 12/15 negatives are "somewhat diffuse", using a loupe.
    (See Tom Hoskinson's post on page 2...he already nailed me for using a 120ml lens )

    I read on another post how sanking tests for accutance; by photographing a distant mountains ridgeline against the sky, then printing that portion of the image with the enlarger racked up to 20x24. I just did that with an HP5+ developed in 12/15 image I took on the weekend, and even wet (with the emulsion swollen) the ridgeline is sharp - SHARP - SHARP!

    Why was the first accutance test innaccurate? My best guess is there must have been a song on the radio with lots of base while I made the HP5+ exposure at 11x14..?

    If this combo pans out with plus and minus development as well I'll try to get them scanned, then post examples. I'll let this thread fade away now, it's just that I had to correct my earlier wrong.

    Murray

  2. #22
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    HP5+ 4x5

    Quote Originally Posted by MurrayMinchin
    OK, here's the whole enchilada...

    For over 20 years I've only used 4x5 Tri-X developed in HC-110. Due to Kodak's recent d_g_t_l seduction I've decided to divorce myself from all things produced by The Great Yellow Father...there's NO WAY my hard earned money is going to finance their change to d_g_t_l!

    Today I received my first 75 sheets of 4x5 Ilford HP5+. Has anybody had experience with HP5+ (or any other film) in a similar developer?

    Murray
    [FONT=Garamond][SIZE=3][COLOR=Red]I used to shoot it for portraits. (Ilford does a good job of hiding blemishes.)
    I always developed in D76 straight--no dilution as a 1-shot developer. I've used HC-110 1:50, but didn't like it. Rodinal made it too grainy, BUT STUDIONAL (also made by Agfa) gave beautiful tonal range, and fine grain.

    My 3 standard developers are thus: HC-110, Rodinal, & Studional. Hope this helps.

    Joe[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian
    hi murray -

    can't comment on your developer, but if you ever switch to ansco 130 for film ( best with sheet film ) i'll be happy to tell you what i know. one suggestion is to use your developer at about 70º or so, i heard somewhere that glycin loves the warm environments and you will get better results from it at those temperatures.



    donald -

    i love hearing of folks using dektol ( d-72 ) as a film developer i've spoken with many olde-timer news-guys that used dektol on a regular basis to process their films ... isn't it the same formulation ( or close to it ) as ansco 125 ( also a universal developer ) but using 80g of sodium carbonate instead of 65g


    ... now if i could only find out the formula for "GAF UNIVERSAL DEVELOPER"
    ( in the red can! ) i'd give up everything else and only use that.

    -john
    I think I may have found it John (don't know about the red can, though). I posted the recipe here: http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=163

    It is listed in the Agfa Ansco 1939 "Formulas For Photographic Use as:
    Agfa 103 Universal Film and Paper Developer. It was available from Agfa Ansco (Binghamton, NY) as a packaged developer.
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson
    I think I may have found it John (don't know about the red can, though). I posted the recipe here: http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=163

    It is listed in the Agfa Ansco 1939 "Formulas For Photographic Use as:
    Agfa 103 Universal Film and Paper Developer. It was available from Agfa Ansco (Binghamton, NY) as a packaged developer.

    hey tom -

    thanks for the post here ( and in the recipe section ) ...
    it looks like it *might* be it ... at least the development times are close to the same

    i came across a recipe for a "kodak universal film and paper developer" recently that looked like it could be pretty interesting ...

    maybe it was this that i found, but it was in a different place with a different name:

    KODAK DK-93
    Film and paper developer

    Water, 125F/52C 500 ml
    Para-aminophenol Hydrochloride 5 g
    Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 30 g
    Hydroquinone 2.5 g
    Balanced Alkali 20 g
    Potassium Bromide 0.5 g
    Cold water to make 1L
    Mixing instructions: Add chemicals in specified sequence.

    Dilution: Use undiluted

    Starting point development time: 8 mins.

    - john

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