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  1. #11
    lee
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    I concur with what Mike is saying. I have not been successful with the 1+1+100 dilution and I use 2+2+100 for 14 min at 75f the negs print on a Durst 138 condenser enlarger using a #2 contrast filter.

    lee\c

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee
    I concur with what Mike is saying. I have not been successful with the 1+1+100 dilution and I use 2+2+100 for 14 min at 75f the negs print on a Durst 138 condenser enlarger using a #2 contrast filter.

    lee\c
    Lee, thank you.

    Would you have a "gut feeling" for Chromega Dichroic head?

  3. #13
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    Are you certain you didn't unknowingly contaminate one of the baths by using the same syringe or dropper without flushing it out? I'm not insulting your intelligence because this happened to me and I ruined a roll of film as a result. Granted my negatives were very thin but not blank so it may depend on the level of contamination. Now I use two syringes specifically designated for both "A" and "B" solutions. IMHO pyrocat is quite possibly the best all around developer out there so I'd be hesitant to give up hope.

  4. #14

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    SO what am I doing right? I use both 1:1 and 2:2 and have not had a single problem with PF pyrocat-HD.

    Forgot to mention that it was with efke and delta 100. Is it the film?
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  5. #15

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    Are you remembering to pull your darkslide and take your lens-cap off? Just checking
    I would suggest using 2:2:100.

  6. #16
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    Somethings up with this. No way would you get blanks with the minor adjustments you're considering. Do this. Get a piece of film out, cut it in 4 strips. Mix some developer up in a glass flask, and just stir it with that strip of film with the lights on. (rinse the blue goo off first) If you don't begin to see it getting gray then black after 6 or seven minutes.....you've got other problems that mixing a stonger solution isn't going to solve. Do you have small children that might have poured daddy's 'B' solution down the drain and replaced with water?? If the strip comes out blank, mix up a temporary "B" solution with as much baking soda as you can get to go into H2O and try it again with that. If it turns gray~black, it's your B that's gone bad. If it doesn't , it's your A that's no good.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

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  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce (Camclicker)
    When I add B to A the combined amount takes on the color of the B. When added to water the color is diluted. The A has no color coming from the bottle and the B has a color, I guess I would call it a transparent grey.
    I have always added part_A to the 100 parts of water, then the part_B to that. I use the same pipette, and I have assumed that adding a trace of part_A to the pot.carb would not be a problem, but the other way round would be.

    Do you actually add part_A to part_B before adding to water? Would this be a possible cause of a problem.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by peters
    Are you seeing the A+B mixtures turning colors when they are mixed? If not then it is NOT working.
    this colour business is interesting me ... I've using my own mixed Pyrocat lately, and have found it works "better" (quicker times and higher film speeds) than the PF stuff that I had.

    My own mix doesnt change colour when I add the B solution to the working solution (having already added the A). It stays perfectly clear - And it often isnt very dark at all when I pour it off at the end, although does turn a nice dark brown if I leave it for a few hours. But I get nicely developed and stained negs. So in my case, a lack of a change in colour does not mean the developer isnt working.

  9. #19
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_s
    I have always added part_A to the 100 parts of water, then the part_B to that. I use the same pipette, and I have assumed that adding a trace of part_A to the pot.carb would not be a problem, but the other way round would be.

    Do you actually add part_A to part_B before adding to water? Would this be a possible cause of a problem.
    I don't understand what you mean by: assumed that adding a trace of part_A to the pot.carb would not be a problem, but yes I mix A and B together in a small measurer to confirm correct measuring from the pipette and then to the water. Pipette is rinsed between A and B.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce (Camclicker)
    I don't understand what you mean by: assumed that adding a trace of part_A to the pot.carb would not be a problem, but yes I mix A and B together in a small measurer to confirm correct measuring from the pipette and then to the water. Pipette is rinsed between A and B.
    Part_B is a solution of potassium carbonate. It is very alkaline and activates the developing agents that are in Part_A. Sorry to confuse you.

    My point was that mixing part_A and part_B together before diluting them in the relatively large volume of water is different to what most people do as far as I know. FWIW, I use Pyrocat-HD at 0.6+0.6+100 and it gives plenty of density. This just a little over half the strength of 1+1+100

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