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  1. #1

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    Film rating dilemma

    Hi

    I have a roll of APX400 in my Olympus OM1, and have rated it @ 400. But some days ago I shot some interesting shots in poor light and I had to underexpose by one stop (= @ 800) to get shots without blur.

    Now I have the choice of getting a film with 10 frames that are 1 stop underexposed and the rest correctly exposed (developed to ISO 400) or having 10 shots correctly exposed and the rest 1 stop overexposed (developed to ISO 800)...

    I think of going with the last option as 1 stop overexposed is better than 1 stop underexposed. The B/W negative film is, after all, a forgiving one.

    What would you do?

    Morten

  2. #2
    Nicole's Avatar
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    I'd remove the film in the dark, cut roughly where you think the photos/settings change and load onto seperate reels and into seperate tanks. Just what I'd do. That way you can salvage most of each.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicole Boenig-McGrade
    I'd remove the film in the dark, cut roughly where you think the photos/settings change and load onto seperate reels and into seperate tanks. Just what I'd do. That way you can salvage most of each.
    Hmmm...Didn't think of that...I might try that. Thanks for the advice, Nicole.

  4. #4
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Really depends if the normally-exposed shots are high or normal contrast. If they're high contrast and then you push-process, the negs could be unprintable - if they're low or medium contrast, they'll probably survive. Conversely, if you process the film normally, the shots at EI 800 will probably be printable on hard paper even if they are 1 stop underexposed.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by modafoto
    Hi

    I have a roll of APX400 in my Olympus OM1, and have rated it @ 400. But some days ago I shot some interesting shots in poor light and I had to underexpose by one stop (= @ 800) to get shots without blur.

    Now I have the choice of getting a film with 10 frames that are 1 stop underexposed and the rest correctly exposed (developed to ISO 400) or having 10 shots correctly exposed and the rest 1 stop overexposed (developed to ISO 800)...

    I think of going with the last option as 1 stop overexposed is better than 1 stop underexposed. The B/W negative film is, after all, a forgiving one.

    What would you do?

    Morten
    One stop either side of the optimum exposure is well within the latitude of B&W negative films, so I wouldn`t bother altering the developing time. The negatives that are under exposed, will be a little bit thinner than the normal ones, so you will probably need to print onto a harder grade of paper.
    The effects of so called push processing is very limited any way and at the very most, you will only gain about an increase of around half a stop.
    The speed yield of films are set by the manufacturer and can not be altered to any significant degree.
    Increasing the developing times increases contrast and grain and may make the negatives harder to print.
    Personally, I don`t like printing under exposed and over developed negatives.
    Go to the Kodak website and download Publication O-3 for a further explanation.

  6. #6
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    Morten

    How do you normally process APX 400 in Rodinal ?
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by df cardwell
    Morten

    How do you normally process APX 400 in Rodinal ?
    I rarely use APX400, but when I do it is 1+25 for 10 minutes.

  8. #8
    André E.C.'s Avatar
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    There`s more than enough latitude available!
    I wouldn`t bother and will give N development.

    Cheers

    André

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicole Boenig-McGrade
    I'd remove the film in the dark, cut roughly where you think the photos/settings change and load onto seperate reels and into seperate tanks. Just what I'd do. That way you can salvage most of each.
    Eight holes make an image on 135/36 film.... So if you can count well in the dark, you will not loose anything.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgesGiralt
    Eight holes make an image on 135/36 film.... So if you can count well in the dark, you will not loose anything.
    ....as long as you know the exact starting sprocket hole of frame 1. I don't know how you would do that.

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