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  1. #1

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    ilford pan f plus what will it give me?

    Just bought 100ft roll of Pan f+ 35mm the guy who sold it me swears its the business developed in Rodinal mixed 1:70, I intend to try this combo, whats your favourite developer for pan f + and what do you use it for ?Oh! and before you say taking photographs, I mean is it good for landscapes,buildings,portraits etc.

  2. #2

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    Ilford Pan F+ is the last fine grain film made by a major film maker. Kodak having stopped manufacture of Panatomic X some years ago and Agfa manufacture of their AgfaPan 25 film a couple of years ago.

    Expect to see very fine grain, with very good resolution. I would not recommend it for portraiture since it will tend to show every blemish. Pan F+ tends to be contrasty so avoid overdevelopment. To see the benefits of this film avoid camera shake, use of a tripod is recommended.

  3. #3
    kaiyen's Avatar
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    I've been playing with Pan F plus lately, too. I have used it on landscapes but have not yet tamed contrast. I recently shot some railyard stuff with it, souped in FX-39 (from recommendations on apug). Examples are at

    http://www.pbase.com/romosoho/image/48026529/medium
    http://www.pbase.com/romosoho/image/48026530/medium
    http://www.pbase.com/romosoho/image/48294857/medium

    allan

  4. #4

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    I have always liked the slow films as much for their gradation as for grain and sharpness. I will use Pan F+ for any subject where the film speed is adequate. Most of my photography is scenic views. cityscapes, still life and nature and people pictures.

    I develop with stand development in Pyrocat HD diluted 1:1:250. Generally, slow speed films do not tend to show graininess from a given developer as readiliy as will medium/high speed films. On the other hand Pan F certainly provide higher contrast from extended development more rapidly than the medium/high speed films.

    Highly recommended film.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  5. #5
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    I use Pan F+ in both 35mm and 120 with Rodinal. Typicaly, I use 1:50 dillution, but with Rodinal, you have many options. 1:100 works well also. I typicaly cut both speed and development times based on the lighting conditions unless the light is very flat. For average brightness (soft shadows) cut speed to 25 and development times by %25 and for strong light cut speed another 1/3 stop and dev time by %33.

    Pan F+ gives fantastic results with Rodinal. I have never seen blocked up highlights in my images, but I suppose that all has to do with how you expose and develop. I suggest giving it a shot.

    - Randy

  6. #6
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    This is my favorite portrait film - smooth tones, sharp, almost grainless. I did some landscape shooting with it and developed in WD2D+ which, like the other pyro developers, tends to keep the highlights under control. I was rewarded with easy to print negatives (35mm and 120) that needed little or no dodging and burning or other darkroom fussing to get nice prints. I metered at about 32 to 40 for some better shadow detail for the landscapes, box speed for portraits regardless of whether they were done in natural light or with studio strobes. I personally like the little bit of extra contrast this film gives and have yet to find it unmanageable.

    Joe
    Latent Images Plastic Toy Cameras

    "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive" - Howard Thurman

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdef
    What about TMX? TMX is both faster, and finer grained than Pan F+. Fuji Acros is also at least as fine grained as Pan F+.
    TMX has too many problems such as blocked highlights and a narrow tonal scale.

  8. #8
    roy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Claire Senft
    I develop with stand development in Pyrocat HD diluted 1:1:250.
    Is this for 35mm or 120 and for what time, Claire ?
    Roy Groombridge.

    Cogito, ergo sum.
    (Descartes)

  9. #9

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    I start with a liter of tap water at 70ºF. I add 4 ml of part A. I add 3 grams of washing soda in place of part B. The loaded reel reel is paced on a lifting rod and pre-soaked for 5 minutes in tap water @ 70ºF. I work in the dark with tanks that are uncovered. The developer is in a tank which is in a water bath of running water from a thermostatic valve that will maintain 70ºF. The rod with the reel..please no fishing jokes..is moved to the developing tank. The lifting rod is raised and lowered in approximately 2 inch strokes taking about 1.5 seconds each. I try to avoid any twisting motion since it would give more agitation to film at the outside of the reel than the film near the center. This continues for 1 minute.
    I allow the Pan F+ to remain in the developer with no agitation for another 37 minutes. The film is then stopped and fixed. This 38 minutes of stand developement produces Pan F+negatives that are to my liking for printing via condensers film that was exposed to a scene with a difference in incident light reading of 2.7 to 3 stops between lit and shadowed areas. This is about the amount of contrast between lit and shadowed areas that I encounter for a scene that is receiving full unobscured sunlight during the prime daytime hours. I am always working with negatives that are first latensified with dim light and they are receiving probably 10% more development than I would have chosen if I were not latensifying. My usual aim point is for a grade 2 Medalist paper that I have on hand. I do not ordinarily seek to produce prints with a pure black or white. Rather I normally strive to only produce a print of moderate contrast that may or may not contain the extremes of the tonal scale. I limit myself to the equivalent of 1 36 exposure roll per liter tank of developer this highly dilute Pyrocat HD.

    I normally bulk load my film in short rolls of 18 inch length and use all six of the negatives on the same scene with identical exposures. Each rolls is developed as I see fit. If I wish to have more or less contrast on my negatives for whatever reason then I give more or less exposure and develoment to them. Of course I decide this prior to taking the photograph. With this latensification and developing scheme as outlined above I base my exposure on a shadow reading with an incident meter set to an IE of 200 which is normal for a film giving a true film speed of ISO 100. I am not going to go into my developing time extensions or contractions here.

    If you already have a good film speed that you are using for Pan F+ that receives normal development then you are already set. If that is not the case I would recommend starting at a film speed of 32.

    If you are interested in low light latensification I started a thread devoted to it in January 05. Read the thread thoroughly if interested and try it.
    If you have done that at a minimum and need help PM me. If you a just curious but unwilling to try it first I may be less helpful.

    I am only working in 35mm so you can pretty well guess for which format these instructions are intended.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  10. #10
    david b's Avatar
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    Develope it in Rodinal 1+50 and you will be a very happy person. It's my favorite combination.

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