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  1. #11
    PeterB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnashings
    Is the detail there on the negative?

    Either way, I can only think of dodging the blades out - either manually or by employing a mask of some sort.
    yep, detail is there. I will have a go at burning the blades in, since Iwant them to be darker than the sky.
    regards
    Peter

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Chinn
    If you have a steady hand and magnifier you could place a peice of clear film stock on top of the negative and then use a fine point on a soft pencil lead to dodoge out the blades. ....If you are enlarging 8x10 or larger you should be able to cut out a dodging tool and attach it to a fine wire and be able to dodge the area. it takes practice, but I can be done.
    First option sounds irreversible! I don't trust myself to do that yet. 2nd option is preferable, I'm printing to 9.5" x 12"
    regards
    Peter

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilfordrapid
    I shoot black and white, it is a good practice not to use to strong a filter, for the reason that you are stating, this could be true in color photography too. If you cut your filter strength in about half that should take care of your problem in printing in the future.
    Good idea for the future, but unfortunately can't help out now! BTW to clarify, the filter you refer to is the IR pass filter on the camera lens.
    regards
    Peter

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterB
    First option sounds irreversible! I don't trust myself to do that yet. 2nd option is preferable, I'm printing to 9.5" x 12"
    regards
    Peter
    You use the pencil on the clear film stock and then enlarge through that piece of film stacked with the negative. So you don't actually use draw/shade on the negative itself. You could even use a piece of cleared film leader to use for the mask. .
    "Fundamentally I think we need to rediscover a non-ironic world"
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  5. #15
    PeterB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Chinn
    You use the pencil on the clear film stock and then enlarge through that piece of film stacked with the negative. So you don't actually use draw/shade on the negative itself. You could even use a piece of cleared film leader to use for the mask. .
    OK that sounds more attractive.
    regards
    Peter

  6. #16
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    Contrast mask anyone?
    Robert Hall
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    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

  7. #17
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    I have had some success with adapting a specifically shaped dodging/burning tool to irregularily shaped object I wanted to bring out (either way - darker or brighter). I find that this approach is harder to use with burning than dodgin (at least for me), but I think if the detail is there on the neg you can try making print and cutting out the area you want burned, then overlaying that and using it as a burning tool.

    As I stated in my initial post - and a few people have confirmed - you may want to try some sort of mask... The reason I was a little less than convinced it would work is that a 35mm negative is so small - it may be difficult to create such a mask... Especially since you would want to mask everything but the blades - a lot of area to cover evenly with pencil, etc. But if your hand and eye are steadier than mine...

    Best of luck - let us know how it went!

    Peter.
    Last edited by gnashings; 09-19-2005 at 06:47 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18

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    Give the bleaching a try. Used a lot by Bruce Barnbaum. It does increase contrast in the shadow area. Also make sure you are not overexposing the paper. Try to get just the lightest black that you are comfortable with. This will keep the shadows off the paper curve shoulder. You should see more contrast using the straight part of the curve.

  9. #19

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    Can you re-shoot the photo? It might be a whole lot easier than all the burning and dodging.

  10. #20
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    Agree with Jim & Donald on this one. Trying to separate similar values which are this close together will not be worth the effort. You will spend a lot of time getting a print that isn't exactly what you wanted in the first place. Go back and reshoot with less filter and then try to print. If it isn't in the film, no amount of printing will help. Learn from your mistakes, don't compound them to make them worse. tim

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