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  1. #11

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    I have some experience with your technical development system. My time is 12´45" for your temperature but with 5" agitation once a minute, printing on Ilford MG fiber paper. For 5" agitation at 3 minute intervals (minimal agitation for me) my time is from18 to 22 min. Sometimes, I agitate 5" with 5 minute intervals, time 28 / 35 min. (for maxximun enhanced sharpness).
    An idea: expose six film sheets at EI 64, develop with one scheme of temp/agitation, and cut the times at 9 / 11 / 13 / 15/ 17 /20 min for each sheet. Look in a contact print for maxximmum black time and compare results. At nine minutes, I submerge the first sheet in stop bath (water with five drops of pure acetic acid) and fix, developing the 5 sheets for 11 min.; at 11, I pass another hanger to the stop bath and fix, developing the last 4 for 13 min. and so on. Finished the total developing time, I wash thorougly, and when the negatives are dry, I make the contact prints. The maxximum black time is the minimal time for obtainig the first black in the contact print.
    Claudio Sz

  2. #12

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    Oct 2003
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    Another tip: look the mood of the final print at your enlarging size; if I enlarge too much, FP4 have an "pointillize" look with minimal or extreme minimal agitation but midtones have an incredible enhanced sharpness. I like it for some subjects and dislike it for anothers.Is another powerfull aesthetics resource, and if you take four sheets of the same subjet, developing with different agitation schemes (at different developing times each) you can compare results at your enlarging size.

  3. #13
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Mix and development

    Eric, did I read that you are mixing the "a" and "b" parts together first, then adding water? Mix the "a" with water first, then add the "b" for your working solution. This will help if your are mixing the "a" and "b" first. If thin negatives are still the result, slow down the speed a bit to build density.

    Check the film's unexposed edge on a contact print with the correct contrast you visualized (high values where you placed them and shadows full). Is it a true black, or are you seeing a line where the film's base plus fog is still printing lighter? If so, add on exposure.

    Here's an example from last weekend in which I neglected bellows extension until I was driving home. After some thought, I added development to get high values where they were needed, but exposure was still lacking, so the edge is still a bit thin. Efke 25 at asa 6, but no bellows factor was added (5/8 stop for this 180mm lens with 5 cm extension would have been correct), minimal agitation, 1:1:150 at 20 minutes, 70f so this was too thin for a decent print on grade 2 azo. tim
    Last edited by noseoil; 09-16-2007 at 08:38 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14
    Baxter Bradford's Avatar
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    Interesting thread since I had printed Sandy's UBEye articles yesterday as homework prior to getting set up for a switch to Pyrocat HD from PMK following my purchase of a Jobo processor. The very helpful posts and links here have filled in some of the gaps in my knowledge about specifics with the BTZS set-up.

    It seems such a versatile and accomplished developer, all I need to do is get the ingredients....... and get the Jobo fixed with the right water supply.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller
    If you want to develop FP4 for silver then the CI would fall into .47-.52.
    This CI would be for use with a condenser enlarger system on silver paper. If you are using a diffusion type enlarger, I would suggest a CI of around 0.58 or so.

  6. #16
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    Interesting information. Sometimes the technically minded forget that there are a lot of photographers out there that don't want to get down and dirty with the charts etc. If someone has a new mousetrap that works, just tell us how to set it, not all the physics behind why it's better. The results speak for themselves.

    In fact I add about 500ml of h20 to my tank then throw in the A and B solutions. Then bring it up to 1300ml. I hope this is the correct method.

    The tips on this thread have been very helpful. Thanks one and all. I do appreciate the techno types, but I just don't have it in me anymore to be one.

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