Bleach and selenium on Fortezo
I have some negs that are a bit underdeveloped (Ilford Delta 3200 in Rodinal 1+25 11 mins @ 20 deg. C), for reasons I don't know. I followed the table as it was the first time with that combo, and got thin negs -- quite a shame.
Anyway, I printed one on Forte Fortezo (normal-grade), developed in dektol, and got a nice print but slightly dark highlights. I'd like to bleach the print a little and then tone it in selenium to increase the contrast and "raise" the highlights.
Is this possible?
What bleach should I use? Can I use the bleach in Kodak Sepia toner?
I don't have access to raw chemicals as it's illegal in Sweden (unless you're a pro and have education), but I can get different brands of toners etc.
Bruce Barnbaum, in Art of Photography , recommends localized bleaching with potasium ferricyanide. I've used it on occasion, but would think the bleach in Sepia toning kits would have similiar effect (if they're not the same chemical). Barnbaum recommends running water onto the print as you are bleaching so that you can quickly stop the bleaching process by rinsing the area (print tilted with running water from a hose just under area to be bleached).
van Huyck Photo
"Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"
The bleach in Kodak Sepia Toner kit is ferricyanide and bromide.
Thanks for your replies!
I should have written that I would like to avoid partial bleaching, as it seems quite difficult and time consuming.
I have heard that the bleach in sepia toner acts on the highlights first. If that is the case, I could bleach the print slightly so that the highlights become brighter, and then stop the process in water. Right?
After that, is it okay to rinse for say 20 minuter and selenium tone? Or will the selenium destroy the print after bleaching/rinsing?
If you don't want the highlight to come back (often in a different color) you'll have to fix the bleached print, and then tone. Make sure to rinse (2-5 min is enough) the print between bleach-fix and fix-tone, though.
Otherwise, what you said is doable and doesn't destroy the image.
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this is right, but be advised on this: the fix will make the bleached area more light... so be carefull on how long you bleach.
Originally Posted by Ryuji
also: you can always bleach more - if you have bleached too much and fixed, the game is over..
you say you can have raw chemichals in sweden...
we have similar problems here in DK, but if you know someone that teaches in schools, then they might get hold on some for you..
(and now I am whispering you're in EU......
pick up the phone and get it from Germany or England or....
Fortezo graded papers will selenium tone to a slightly reddish to dark purple black. If you bleach them with selenium - they go very brown - chocholate brown. I use mostly this paper and tone many of them. I usually do not tone and bleach Fortezo because I do not like the brown it turns.
My photos are always without all that distracting color ...
Yes I know... My results in KRST 1+9 is a very nice shift from olive (I develope in Dektol right now...) to deep black with brownish mids and lows if toned for 2-2,5 mins. At 3,5 mins the print suddenly turns chocolate, which is pretty cool, but not the effect I'm looking for here.
with selenium - they go very brown - chocholate brown.
If I bleach, fix and rinse the print, will the selenium toning process be sped up, or can I expect about the same times and results as with an unbleached print? I have quite a lot of extra prints on this picture, so I can do some testing before the final prints.
Same here in Norway - fortunately I'm registered as a business, and have education
Originally Posted by timeUnit
One surprisingly effective way of bleaching just a little is to give the print a good long soak in acidic rapid fix. Warmtone prints bleach more, cold-tone hardly at all. Lith prints must be printed a lot darker if they are to be fixd in such a fixer...
Try it, it's all standard darkroom stuff!
-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
This is a classic trick using ammonium thiosulfate, sodium metabisulfite and citric acid. The pH is fairly low and the solution doesn't keep too well (when bisulfite ions are oxidized, the solid sulfur will appear). But it's a good simple, safe and slow working reducer.
Originally Posted by Ole