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Thread: Rating PanF+

  1. #11
    BruceN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeyk49
    I may just try this...
    So do you think its the film, or the film/dev combo?
    Here's my rule of thumb for Pan F+ in 35mm:

    Cloudy, low contrast: Rodinal 1:50 / 10.5 min. w/normal agitation @ 68 deg.(1st 15 sec. then 5 sec every 2 min.)

    Sunny, high contrast: Rodinal 1:200 / 90 min. (1st 10 sec. then 1 inversion @ 45 min.)

    This seems to work really well for me for 35mm, I've experimented with stuff in between and haven't really found any improvement.

    Good luck,
    Bruce

  2. #12
    gnashings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeyk49
    ... I had a couple of prints made at a local lab (cheaper, with more consistant output) and found the prints to be very contrasty.
    ...
    Well...I think you may be throwing in a lot of variables by doing this as you have no idea what contrast settings they used, paper, etc. Also, I find that larger prints require a touch more contrast dialed in than small ones (to get the same visual impact of the finished product) - what size are these prints?
    The only way to really know what you have is to have a complete set of data to play with - and that really means doing it yourself. That way you will know - ok, I printed this 8x10 on paper x at this contrast grade and I got this result. Then you can judge wether or not the negatives are within acceptible range. Especially since you said the negs did not look like they were out of the ordinary contrast wise.

  3. #13
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    I dropped them off at the local 1 hr lab because it was a test roll, in which I was figuring on seeing the clarity of the lens and how well I was able to focus with the rangefinder...

    As far as that goes, I was fairly happy with what I saw in the negative. Now, mind you, I don't have a trained eye for negs, but they seems to be pretty even and their density looked pretty good to me...

    I'm guessing that the lab may be more accustomed to c-41 type films and set their contrast to suit those. But I figured that I'd throw it out to the esteemed APUG community to get a little direction on this. I value the opinion here, greatly...

    I may try a more controlled attempt at it, soon. I'm just not happy with my self taught (reading alot, no formal instruction) printing skills to trust them, yet. I am finding that my results with PanF are mixed, depending on the type of light encountered. I've only gone through about 50 feet of the stuff, with another hundred in the fridge. I'm hoping to iron out some of my wrinkles with more film and more time in the darkroom.

  4. #14
    mmcclellan's Avatar
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    I have been rating Pan F at EI 25 after testing it for film speed (.1 density over fb+f) with development in Rodinal 1:50 and the results have been superb. Test it for film speed using your equipment, get a densitometer reading, and then go with what you got. 25 works great for me!
    Michael McClellan
    Documentary Photographer
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    http://www.MichaelMcClellan.com

  5. #15
    david b's Avatar
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    I just spent the afternoon in the New Mexican landscape with my Xpan and a few rolls of Pan F+ (rated at 25) that I will develope tonight 1:50.

    I'll report back later.

  6. #16

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    [QUOTE=joeyk49]

    I was shooting some test shots with my newly operational Yash Electro GS. QUOTE]

    You don't see those old girls very often; good solid camera. They don't make 'em like that anymore. Keep 'er rollin'!

  7. #17

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    The issue I have had is in controlling the highlight separation, and I have not been comfortable using pyro developers with this film. I find that I enjoy the sparkle of this film when developed in Rodinal with its high acutance tendencies. I shoot at EI 40 and develop in Rodinal at 1:50 for 10 minutes. This works for most papers but particularly for JandC polywarmtone which is a little contrasty. If I have a negative shot at midday with particularly blocky highlights, I then flash the paper for 1-2 seconds.

  8. #18
    reellis67's Avatar
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    I rate it according to the light levels. If the light is flat, I shoot at the rated speed and use a standard development time (in Rodinal). If there are shadows but they are not too sharp I cut speed to 25 and cut dev time by %25. If the shadows are sharp (harsh light in Florida is common) I cut the film speed by 1.3 stops and the dev time by %33. When I develop, I check my notes and develop based on the contrastiest lighting conditions on that roll. I have no problem printing the negs using this method with Pan F+ (or FP4+/HP5+). Some of the negs are flat due to changes in the light levels over the corse of a roll, but they print up fine with a little boost from a contrast filter. Please note that I mostly shoot medium format these days so my rolls are often shot under similar lighting conditions, but this method works for me using 36 exp rolls of 35mm as well.

    - Randy

  9. #19
    david b's Avatar
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    Well, yesterday I shot two roll of 35mm Pan F+ and one roll medium format. Shot all of it at 25. Both lenses (45mm on xpan, 50mm on 503cw) had light yellow filters.

    Then I developed them all in the same tank, 1+50 - 11 @ 68.

    The medium format negs are gorgeous. The 35mm negs look, well, not so good. Almost flat I guess. Or even undeveloped.

    I will be making contact sheets this morning. Maybe I am wrong.

  10. #20
    joeyk49's Avatar
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    I'm glad I asked the question...

    It seems that I've got a little work to do with the hundred feet or so of PanF that I have left...

    Its seems to me that my development time may be on the long side for Rodinal(1:50 10.5 - 11 mins. @ 68 F). I may also try Accutol as suggested by another of our group. I'll try to keep it slow and methodical, to illiminate as many variables as possible. But I like to read the experiences of others, so as not to reinvent the wheel.

    Thanks guys!

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