Fixer failure.

[Mike Kennedy]

I ruined 3 rolls of tri-x film last week and traced the problem back to exhausted fixer. This is the first time in 5 years of processing, and many other mistakes, that this has occurred.
If I outline my methodology maybe someone can suggest a better approach. Mix Kodak Professional rapid fixer (liquid) to make 1 U.S Gal. of working solution and store it in a Delta 1 container. I then decant the liquid into a 1 litre plastic bottle and use that for 5 single developments before I get rid of it.

Any Suggestions?

[David A. Goldfarb]

Sounds reasonable enough. Sometimes the fixer can go off as a result of age or maybe exposure to high temperature, so if you haven't done any processing for a while, you might clip a film leader and do a leader test, just to be sure it's still good. You can also use a hypo-check solution, such as the one made by Edwal.

Have you tried refixing those three rolls? They might be salvageable.

[reellis67]

I ruined 3 rolls of tri-x film last week and traced the problem back to exhausted fixer.

I always check my fixer with the film leader for every developing session. I usualy only do one to three rolls in any given session, but if you are doing more, I would check the fixer every third roll. Just drop the leader in and time how long it takes to clear. Fixer should be tossed after the clear time doubles from when you first mixed the fixer. If your main container of fixer sits for a while, it could be the source of your problem. I keep mine in 1L air-evac containers so that there is no air exposure for the bottles that sit for months before use.

- Randy

[Photo Engineer]

Don't forget that you can sometimes retrieve underfixed film by refixing in fresh fix and then rewashing.

It isn't perfect, but you can get usable negatives sometimes.

PE

[david b]

Sorry to hear about the bad fix. I use Edwal's Hypo-Chek to see if the fix is bad.

I normally do 15-20 rolls per liter before it goes bad. If you are only doing 5 rolls per liter, you're wasting a lot of money.

[Bob F.]

I use a belt & braces approach to fixer (the only time I do get anal about such things) and test clearing time with a cut piece of leader and use the Tetenal test strips that test for silver and ph levels before each run. I've used exhausted fixer too many times in the past to want to do it again. Sometimes it just seems to die for no obvious reason ('tho I'm sure there is a good reason: most likely me, messing something up!).

Cheers, Bob.

[Tom Hoskinson]

I've gone to one shot fixing with film.

With paper, I use two bath fixing and mix new fixing baths for each printing session.

[Donald Qualls]

I'm heading in the direction of either two-bath or one-shot fixing for film, too. I had a batch of fixer go bad (probably just from overuse) a few months ago; fortunately, I had some more concentrate on hand -- but now, the bottle I store the working fixer in has turned completely black, presumably due to silver deposited on the inside; there's also a distinct "filter factor" to the fixer, especially if I shake up the jug before pouring, that I presume to be extremely fine metallic silver in suspension.

Seems to fix the film just fine and I don't detect it leaving spots on the film, so I'm not worrying about it, but when I get money I should get some tray cleaner...

[PeterB]

I use a belt & braces approach to fixer (the only time I do get anal about such things) and test clearing time with a cut piece of leader and use the Tetenal test strips that test for silver and ph levels before each run. ......Cheers, Bob.

How can I do the "clearing time" test for my paper fixer?

thanks
Peter

[reellis67]

I think for paper the only thing you can do is to use a hypo check solution. It clouds up when the fixer is exhausted.

- Randy