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  1. #11
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sorensen
    On other thing...is it normal to orient the film toward the inside of the reel? That is what I have been doing, because it just feels right, but I don't know.
    You mean with the emulsion towards the centre? That's the way Jobo recommend. Instruction manuals here: http://www.jobousadarkroom.com/support.htm

    I suspect that rolling the drums manually does not create the "standing wave" patterns that will form with rotation in a processor - i.e. it will get slopped about side-to-side more. The CPE2 runs at about 60-80 RPM in fast speed, two and a bit rotations before reversing.

    Cheers, Bob.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    I've got two unicolors and neither causes a problem. Jobo used to recommend motorbases that reversed direction instead of unidirectonal bases.
    The new one I have reverses direction, but only when I do it, so it won't be a pattern of reversing exactly after one rotation. My suspicion is that this pattern created surges.

  3. #13

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    You can also "tip" the tank up a few inches on the lift midway through the run to redistribute the developer. This may help give a bit more eveness in the processing.

  4. #14

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    I had these really annoying density patches and marks along the edges just as you have using these reels. I even thought of ditching the reels altogether because on some negs - especially those in the inside slots - the marks cut into the image far too much. I decided to tackle the problem, and now my negs are totally perfect, and are as good as any I have seen.
    The marks come from un-even development at the edges, either under- dev'd or over due to 2 things - the little plastic pips all along the slots, and the neg surface touching the side of the slot during processing. The first thing is easy to cure. Just get a new, sharp scalpel and trim down the little notches - they are much bigger than they need to be. I cut them from being squared shape to triangular so they have much less contact with the film surface. Have a go at this, it goes a long way to reducing the messy edges.
    The second thing - keeping the film surface away from the spiral edge is a bit trickier. I ended up glueing with epoxy little plastic 'pips' almost 1mm big around the spiral edges - about 3 per slot side, spaced out at the points where the film touches the sides - have a look with a duff sheet of film loaded in each slot - it does touch, and this is where the light streaks appear on the neg to give you dark streaks on a print. This is where it needs 'lifting' away from the spiral. If you feel brave this is well worth doing, it makes loading the sheets a little more difficult, but its permanent, cures the problem and makes for pretty perfect negs.

  5. #15
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    I used to get awful uneven edges when I started using my Jobo for rollfilm. I started using that really long pre-soak that they recommend and it seemed to solve the problem however I eventually returned to invertable SS tanks so that I could use intermitant agitation. I still use the Jobo for 4x5 using the old style tanks and reels with good results. I have been using the slow speed but after reading this thread, I think that I will switch to fast.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  6. #16

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    Forgot to mention I always got the streaks on slow or fast speed, pre soak or no pre soak. After I hacked up the spirals each spiral takes 6 sheets no problem. It really is down to un-Germanic poor design of the spirals, like they designed and made them without testing edge effects at all, or perhaps they thought all pics should be cropped top and bottom.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sorensen
    I have had similar, actually quite a bit worse, problems with my jobo drums and reels. Mine have the same types of streaks at the top and bottom, but they also have really bad semicircular marks, about an inch in diameter, on the edges some of the sheets.

    I attributed it to using a unicolor base that happens to turn directions almost exactly at one rotation. I have a different base that I just came across, and it allows for constant rotation so that I can run it for maybe 30 sec and then change direction. I am hoping that it helps. As for speed, I am not sure how it compares to the Jobo processor.

    For those who have the reversing Unicolor motor bases, there should be a reversing switch that is accessible by removing the bottom plate. If you simply remove the wire attached to the common terminal on the switch and directly wire it to either of the other two terminals the base will turn in only one direction.

  8. #18
    Ole
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    I'm a little surprised by all this.

    I've just started using my pre-owned CPE2 for film development, and have developed about 90 sheets of 9x12cm, 4x5", 5x7", 13x18cm, 18x24cm and 30x40cm over the past week. All were done at the slowest speed, none showed any sign of uneven development (except the one sheet that was emulsion toward tank wall, but that's another story). The 9x12 and 4x5" were done in the spiral, larger in a 2830 paper drum.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  9. #19

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    Ole
    Have you made any contact prints yet? If you havn't got any weird edge effects I'd love to know what you are doing.

  10. #20
    Ole
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    Richard, I had to stop the developing yesterday to go offshore. I earn my livin (and finance my hobby) in the North Sea oil industry.

    No contact prints yet, but there will be in a few weeks. But the negs were perfectly even.

    BTW: Mostly Rodinal 1:25, 10 min; some Beutler's, 13min; all (!) were ISO 100 (APX, FP4+, PL100) shot at nominal speed.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

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