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  1. #11

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    Developing Kodak B&W Reversal Film

    The process given by Kodak is for processing movie film at 20C (68F):

    First Developer, 2 min at 20C (68F)
    Wash, 30 seconds (plain water, do NOT use a stop bath)
    Bleach, 50 seconds
    Wash, 30 seconds
    Clearing Bath, 30 seconds
    Wash, 30 seconds
    Reexposure, 800 foot-candle seconds
    Second Developer, 50 seconds
    Wash, 30 seconds
    Fixer, 50 seconds
    Wash, 2 minutes

    Formulas:

    [FONT=Courier New]Kodak D-94

    Water, 50 degrees C (125 F) 750 ml
    Kodak Elon (Metol) 0.6 g
    Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 50.0 g
    Hydroquinone 20.0 g
    Potassium Bromide (anhydrous) 8.0 g
    (or 7.0 g Sodium Bromide)
    Sodium Thiocyanate (liquid) 9.1 ml
    Sodium Hydroxide 20.0 g
    Water to make 1.0 L

    Kodak Bleach R-9

    Water 1.0 L
    Potassium Dichromate (anhydrous) 9.5 g
    Sulfuric Acid (Concentrated)* 12.0 ml
    * CAUTION: Always add the sulfuric acid to the solution slowly, stirring
    constantly, and never add the solution to the acid; otherwise, the solution
    may boil and splatter the acid, causing serious burns.

    (Note: I substitute 35.0 ml regular automotive battery acid for the 12.0 ml
    concentrated Sulfuric Acid. I've heard that you can substitute 66g Sodium Bisulfate for the Sulfuric Acid.)

    Kodak Clearing Bath CB-2

    Water 750 ml
    Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 210.0 g
    Water to make 1.0 L[/FONT]

    Kodak gives a fixer formula in H-24 Module 15, but you can use any fixer. A hardening fixer is recommended for cine film. You can use Dektol 1:3 in place of the D-95 second developer if you want.

  2. #12
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    thanks for all the info people - and sorry i havent got replied but my browser crashes all the time - will investigate if i can get these chems easily locally ...

    anyone know of a cheap and cheerful method of actually getting the film though these various chems aside from a bucket painted black??

  3. #13

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    Russian Lomo Sprial reel, as I mentioned before, for lengths greather than six feet and up to 50 feet (actually two lengths of 50 feet at a time).

    For short lengths up to 6 feet, a regular 16mm film processing tank, plastic only. Do not put R-9 or R-10 bleach in any metal container. The 16mm tanks might be hard to find, but they are out there.

  4. #14
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Sorry these SkipA - my browser is all over the place and I never got to read your post - great info - I'm off to that site now...

    I got 20,000 feet of 7276 for ~ $100US - and could of got more as well, but wanted to test some first and missed out on the rest because of the delay in having to get it processed in Australia at a great cost (100feet @ ~ $45) - and that was processed as neg, with the associated grain increase

    As i have such a good amount I think it would be worth investing in a propoer dev system to save money and get the grain down (;

  5. #15
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkipA
    There are several different Lomo spiral reel tanks, so make sure it is the one that processes 2x8mm, 2x16mm, or 1x35mm in 50 foot sections. You can process two 50 foot sections of film in about 2 liters of solutions.

    I'll post the D-94 / R-9 formulas for you.
    is there anything wrong with the 100ft version ?

    http://www.geocities.com/cinetank/pro-base.htm

    also I should note my stock is single perf but has the mag sound stripe - so its no good for super16, ah well -

    but will the mag stipe be affected by the chems ??

  6. #16

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    The 16/35 x 100Pro tank would be great to have. I'd love to have one. The last time I asked Olexandr about it was back in February of this year. He had only one, it had a big crack in it that he had repaired with epoxy and a metal plate. And he wanted a lot of money for it, although I forget the amount. Email him and ask him. Maybe he has more of them now.

    I don't really know about the mag stripe. I don't think it would be a problem.

  7. #17
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkipA
    Reexposure, 800 foot-candle seconds
    how does one go about doing this with equal exposure to all parts of the film ?

    chemically or actual light ?

  8. #18

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    Actual light. I use the same 100 watt light bulb in a reflector that I use for contact printing, but just about any light will do.

    One lumen falling on one square foot of surface produces an illumination of one foot candle. A box of 60 watt bulbs I have here say they produce 870 lumens. At one foot distance from the film, it would take one second to properly re-expose the film. I think. I just wave my 100 watt light around the film from all sides for a few seconds, and that works fine.

  9. #19
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkipA
    Actual light.

    I just wave my 100 watt light around the film from all sides for a few seconds, and that works fine.
    excellent! sounds like me..

    Pity tho, Olex has no tanks left ....

    I'm investigating making my own - need a milling machine with a rotating bed and/or a lathe with a fairly zippy operator

  10. #20
    Claude's Avatar
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    Hello,
    I tested Tri-X in a reversal process, read here :
    http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=134
    Regards
    Claude

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