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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder
    excellent! sounds like me..

    Pity tho, Olex has no tanks left ....

    I'm investigating making my own - need a milling machine with a rotating bed and/or a lathe with a fairly zippy operator
    Ahh. If you are successful making one, please let me know. You'll be milling some sort of plastic, I take it? Remember you can't use the bleaches with metal.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Claude
    Hello,
    I tested Tri-X in a reversal process, read here :
    http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=134
    Regards
    Claude
    Excellent article, Claude. Thank you for pointing it out. I believe I will try that with 8x10 Efke.

  3. #23
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    Thank you SkipA,
    for sheet films you better use a bleaching bath based on potassium dichromat (9.5 grams of Potassium Dichromate and 12 ml of concentrated Sulfuric Acid, 2 minutes, than 2 minutes clearing)
    With potassium permanganate bleaching you will get irregular results.
    I'm very busy in my work these times and I'll write a second article for sheet films when I'll be less stressed.
    I got good results with PL100 8x10 and TriX 320 with this second bleaching method.
    Regards
    Claude

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder
    excellent! sounds like me..

    Pity tho, Olex has no tanks left ....

    I'm investigating making my own - need a milling machine with a rotating bed and/or a lathe with a fairly zippy operator
    How about using a piece of black ABS Sewer Pipe as the basis for the tank? I see that the diameter of the Russian reel is 380mm (~ 15 inches). You should be able to get a piece of ABS pipe of the right diameter from a Plumbing Supply Store.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  5. #25
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Claude
    Hello,
    I tested Tri-X in a reversal process, read here :
    http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=134
    Regards
    Claude
    thanks for the link - I mistakenly listed the film type in the thread title as Tri-X - it is actually Plus-X - but any info is good as it seems the processes are the same

  6. #26
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkipA
    Ahh. If you are successful making one, please let me know. You'll be milling some sort of plastic, I take it? Remember you can't use the bleaches with metal.
    Oddly enough my local photography store had two Lomo 16mm tanks for sale - the store owner was lucky enough to be there when the person came in to trade them apparently as he was aware of their relative scarcity (and therefore worth) so he snapped them up for eventual onsale to yours truly (;

    its only the 10 metre version but it was even boxed with 'certificate' and instructions intact - i got two... a one cheaper one also for spares

    A mate at work had an interesting idea tho of how to make a spiral - he thought you could spin two bits of wire in a flat spiral around a point then adhesing one of the wires to another flat section of plastic (with holes cut in it) - the second piece of wire is there as a place holder until the glue is set ...

    Fiddly, I imagine but totally do-able - somehow seal the ends so the metal isn't exposed ...

    ... off to buy some chems ~ !


  7. #27

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    Great deal, nick. You're set to go.

    Now the tricky part will be loading the spiral in the dark. It doesn't load like a 35mm or 120 reel. It's considerably more tedious.

    I suggest you nail a small 1x1 inch piece of wood to a larger stable wooden base, then drive a small nail into the 1x1 inch piece. Put the lower half of the spiral on the nail. You'll be able to turn it freely with minimal friction and without it wandering all over your counter top.

    Leave the top disc off to get started. Attach the film to the hub through the slits (from inside to outside, then back in... you'll see what I mean) and take a half turn clockwise around the hub wall. Twist the film over to the left so it will feed flat from the outside of the reel. Maintain some slight tension on the film against the outer edge of the reel. Put the top disc on while maintaining the tension on the film, then screw it down, but not too tight. Now turn the reel clockwise, feeding the tensioned film in flat from the outer edge until the entire length is in the reel. Tighten the top disc down snugly, but don't over tighten.

    It's easier said than done. Practice in the light with some scrap film. You will think you need three hands. If you are dealing with long film, mount a 16mm movie film rewind on the base board about a foot to the right of the nail. You might then want to raise the height of spiral seat and nail to about the height of the spindle on the film rewind. Transfer your film to a small 16mm movie film reel or camera daylight spool. You will then be able to feed the film spiral from the rewind. Long lengths of film tend to get hopelessly tangled up in the dark if you don't have a secure way to handle them.

    Some other tips: If you are developing single perf film, load the perfs down into the groove. It's best if emulsion faces in, but either way will work.

    Very occasionally, the film will fail to develop in the perf area down in the groove because it sticks to the plastic. To avoid this, don't pour the developer into the dry loaded tank through the light trap. Instead, with the lights off, put the developer in the tank, put the spiral in and agitate immediately (turning clockwise only, somewhat firmly) to ensure the film is evenly and quickly wetted. Then put the lid on. You can then process with the lights on.

    Never agitate by turning the spiral anti-clockwise. You will unseat the film and make it come out of the spiral. Turn clockwise only, and firmly.

    Good luck. Let me know if you run into problems.

  8. #28
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkipA
    Great deal, nick. You're set to go.

    Now the tricky part will be loading the spiral in the dark. It doesn't load like a 35mm or 120 reel. It's considerably more tedious.

    ...


    Good luck. Let me know if you run into problems.
    I have practiced a heap and will be exposing 30ft one clear night soon as I have made an intervalometer for my Bolex and want to shoot some star-trails with the 'T' setting and about a 15min period (ie. shutter open for 14mins and 55secs of that) - next build will be an equatorial mount so I can do Baraka style cine shots (will post pix of both systems in the camera mod forums)

    I have found that it is easier to load 16mm than 120 just gotta be careful of the twisty mess that can result if I somehow get it incorrectly seated and it finds its way off the winder and onto the floor/desktop :o

    last week I taught my cousin how to load 120 and he did it in 3 mins, I have done maybe 30 or so roll's and am still swearing in the dark for up to half an hour on occassion

  9. #29
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