Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,266   Posts: 1,534,329   Online: 780
      
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Lucky SHD 100

  1. #1
    thefizz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Trim, Ireland.
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,039
    Images
    37

    Lucky SHD 100

    I am trying out Lucky SHD 100 film in 120 size for the first time and need developing info.

    The developers I have are Rodinal, Rodinal Special, Tmax and Claytons F76+. Any times for these would be appreciated. I have checked digitaltruth.com and it shows a time for Rodinal 1:25 but I would prefer 1:50.

    Peter

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Netherlands
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,336
    Rodinal 1+50 Lucky SHD 100, E.I. 100, 22:00 Min. Grain is terrible for an iso 100 film and sharpness not terrific. Forget this film and spent your last Rodinal for something else!

    Rodinal alternatives: Rollei Retro 100 (APX), Fomapan 100, FP4+. If you're going for cheap film, try the Czech Fomapan 100.


    Best regards,

    Robert

  3. #3
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    North Carolina, USA (transplanted from Seattle)
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,845
    I haven't use SHD 100. I was pretty happy with the SHD 400, but in 6x9 cm, the grain isn't a big issue, for the most part. However, I develop in HC-110, for the most part, and Rodinal does tend to exaggerate grain. I do quite like Fomapan; I might also suggest the J&C Pro 100 in 120 is quite nice, though you do need to watch temperature very carefully and avoid acid stop bath (use 2 or 3 changes of plain water, matching temperature, instead), and there is no less expensive 120 film anywhere. Carry some masking tape when shooting Pro 100 -- the end tapes applied at the factory are completely useless (or were in the last batch I bought -- can't speak for current production).
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  4. #4
    abeku's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sweden
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    426
    Images
    53
    It's a great film! It has a unique character, especially the way it handle the highlights! My EI is 80 iso and I develop it in D-76 1+1 for 8 minutes, 20 C. When using Rodinal, I usually end up doing stand development procedures, usually 2 hours (1+200) when exposed at 80-100 iso.
    - You will develop when you become an analog photographer / Exposed Material / Monochromes

  5. #5
    thefizz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Trim, Ireland.
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,039
    Images
    37
    With the limited info I had to go on, I worked out an estimate of 12 minutes for a 1:50 Rodinal dilution and the negs look good. I am going to try my second roll at 1:200 for 2 hours as mentioned by abeku.

  6. #6
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sandy Hook, CT
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    973
    I agree with abeku that its a great film. I shoot at ISO 100, develop in D-76 (i develop for 7mins), and hte results are wonderful. The film yeilds nice thick negaives with good contrast, decent grain, and good grey tones. It handles highlights interestingly, due to its ineffective anti-halo layer, the highlights range from normal to an HIE-like effect, with glowing highlights that bleed into the surrounding areas. And, as Donald mentioned, in 6x9 cm (which I shoot as well), the grain is no problem whatsoever.

    Just a reccomendation: load hte camera in subdued light, as the film base is quite clear, and hte anti-halo layer is poor, you may get some light-piping that can cause odd effects ...

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    7
    I'm shooting SHD 400 sometimes, for experiments. Grain is ok for 400 speed film, at least better than Agfa APX-400.
    My default stand development time in Rodinal 1:100 is 1 hour. (very little agitation)
    I do not found any differences in SHD 100 and SHD 400. Maybe except little bit less grain in SHD 100.

    Downside is, that you can easily blow out highlights, because of lack of anti-hallation layer.

    Film base curls a lot, and this can be major headache when scanning this film

  8. #8
    abeku's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sweden
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    426
    Images
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by gasha
    Downside is, that you can easily blow out highlights, because of lack of anti-hallation layer.
    - That's the major reason why I'm using this film every now and then. "The bleeding" can be used in a creative way and the effect can be enhanced by pull development. An exemple of the blown out highlights.
    - You will develop when you become an analog photographer / Exposed Material / Monochromes

  9. #9
    thefizz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Trim, Ireland.
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,039
    Images
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by thefizz
    With the limited info I had to go on, I worked out an estimate of 12 minutes for a 1:50 Rodinal dilution and the negs look good. I am going to try my second roll at 1:200 for 2 hours as mentioned by abeku.
    Well the second roll also looks good so I can't wait to print both and compare.

    Thanks to you all for your help.

    Peter



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin