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  1. #21

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    [QUOTE=sanking] You can develop the negative back to a lower or higher contrast. I have done this quite often with negatives that were originally too contrasty because of overdevelopment. Bleaching and redevelopment made them much easier to print, especially in the highlights.

    Sandy (and anyone else),
    I have some 4x5 negatives processed in Pyrocat that are too contrasty. Can I use the bleach/redevelop process to help them? If so I would appreciate some details. Pat Gainer mentioned redevloping to completion. I assume that is not what I want to do, do I just do it by eye instead? Thanks

    Richard Wasserman

  2. #22

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    Yes, if you don't redevleop to completion you will need to develop until the desired contrast is reached. This takes a little practice, but can be done visually, or you could run tests and calculate how long development needs to be to get to a certain degree of development.

    Years ago when I made three-color carbons I would often adjust one or more of the negatives to balance the set as closely as possible. I got very good at it after some practice.

    If you try this just make sure that the negative is well fixed and washed. If not, the negative will be irreparably damaged.

    Sandy




    [QUOTE=disfromage]
    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    You can develop the negative back to a lower or higher contrast. I have done this quite often with negatives that were originally too contrasty because of overdevelopment. Bleaching and redevelopment made them much easier to print, especially in the highlights.

    Sandy (and anyone else),
    I have some 4x5 negatives processed in Pyrocat that are too contrasty. Can I use the bleach/redevelop process to help them? If so I would appreciate some details. Pat Gainer mentioned redevloping to completion. I assume that is not what I want to do, do I just do it by eye instead? Thanks

    Richard Wasserman

  3. #23

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    Thanks Sandy, I'll give this a try. It sounds like just what I need for some very important negatives that are really hard to print. Time to run some experiments...

    Richard Wasserman

  4. #24
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    My comment dealt with unavailable light, when normal development gives very thin negatives, often very frustrating because you can see what you want to print, but the paper cannot. Push processing, as many of you have seen, often does not produce what you would like to see. Also, when you are using roll film, you may have shots on the same roll that you would rather not push. Anyway, that is why I said to develop to completion. Sandy knows more about the possible uses of BRD than I do.

    You will know when bleaching is complete.

    Incidentally, if you are planning to redevelop to completion, you can use a mixture of catechol and carbonate and save your Pyrocat for other uses. You don't need sulfite or phenidone or metol. I think (it's been a while since I tried it) that 1/4 tsp of catechol and 1 tsp of sodium carbonate in 500 ml will do the trick. Just don't mix it today expecting to use it tomorrow or even an hour from now. It cannot cause any fog that was not in the original negative, but it will stain that fog along with the image.
    Gadget Gainer

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