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Tri-X 400 S.o.S - Questions of a 35mm "Returnee"
Being an avid street photographer, I'm finally returning to 35mm as I've found after years of shooting the Bronica Sq that my eyes simply aren't what they used to be. I came across a minty F100 body at a decent price, and a 50mm/1.4. A nice AF combo - but it's been years since I've done any 35mm work!
My film of choice is Kodak Tri-x (400) - but it's been so long since I've shot any in 35mm (much less souped any!) that I'm not sure where I'd start my processing tests.
I know that with 35mm grain is a major consideration - I take it Rodinal's out. What's that leave me with? I'm thinking maybe X-tol or Microdol-X? Or the age-old D-76? But at what cost to film speed & sharpness?
I use a Jobo CPP-2 for most of my work (rodinal's fussy nature with constant agitation being the only exception), and enlarge to sizes ranging from 5x7 to 11x14, depending on the subject of course.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I know this should be like riding a bike, but I'd rather have my knees & elbows well padded!
Cheers
Daniel
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Everyone's going to tell you use what they use, so I'll start:
Tri-X (@400) in D-76.
Cheers,
David
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That's probably all too true! 
I should point out that the emphasis of my street shots are people! (spontaneous portraiture). Ideally, I'd like to aim for rich, milky skin tones, and good shadow detail (so that eyes don't appear dull). Obviously, highlights should be nicely separated as is to be expected of the revered Tri-x emulsion.
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Actually: 400TX 35mm as 200 iso/250iso
in ID-11 1+1 20°C 10' in a every 30sec, 5 seconds agitation
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Tri-x@200, Perceptol 1+3, 13', 24° Celsius, 5 inversions every minute, 30 secs initial agitation. My all around combination.
Tri-x@250, Rodinal 1+50, 11', 20° Celsius, 5 inversions every minute, 30 secs initial agitation, when I want the 'rodinal look'.
Tri-x@1600, rodinal 1+50, 25', 20° Celsius, 5 inversions every 5 minutes, 30 secs initial agitation for a graphic pushed look.
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 Originally Posted by Tach
Tri-x@200, Perceptol 1+3, 13', 24° Celsius, 5 inversions every minute, 30 secs initial agitation. My all around combination.
Tri-x@250, Rodinal 1+50, 11', 20° Celsius, 5 inversions every minute, 30 secs initial agitation, when I want the 'rodinal look'.
Tri-x@1600, rodinal 1+50, 25', 20° Celsius, 5 inversions every 5 minutes, 30 secs initial agitation for a graphic pushed look.
I've heard of the so called "Rodinal Look" but I've yet to hear or see what that refers to. Any hints there?
Also - Tri-X@1600 ?? Wow.. I think I'll try that out if only so I can say I did What do you mean by "graphic pushed look" ?
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Xtol, definitely, for fine grain and sharpness. If you like grain, go with the Rodinal. 5x7 is as large as I'll go with that combination. I've had some luck with using Fine Art Photo Supply FA-1027 developer and Tri-X at 400. Fine grain and very sharp.
- Thom
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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 Originally Posted by huggyviking
Xtol, definitely, for fine grain and sharpness. If you like grain, go with the Rodinal. 5x7 is as large as I'll go with that combination. I've had some luck with using Fine Art Photo Supply FA-1027 developer and Tri-X at 400. Fine grain and very sharp.
- Thom
Xtol would've been my guess as well. The fine-grain, relative-sharpness (word has it D76 does better on the edges) and - it's Jobo-friendly (Our dear friend Rodi isn't know for that 
However... everything comes at a price. Xtol probably wouldn't produce anything I'd consider acceptable shadow detail when rated above ISO 250 - I could be wrong, it's certainly worth a test batch. Here's another advantage of using 35mm film! Bulk loading = test almost any number of combinations to your heart's content for $30 bucks!
Will certainly put that on my list.
PS - Spending the extra 200% on the 50mm/1.4 was worth it! The 2 stops over my initial choice - the 60mm/2.8 will lend themselves well to Xtol if I decide to standardize on it.
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I use tri-x (400TX now?) for street photography. I have only used it with xtol so far, but I don't think I will try any other dev's since the results have been so good. The grain in much smaller and sharper than I was expecting, I really like the look.
I shoot it at EI250ish in xtol 1:1.
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I use Tri-X (400) for almost all of my work. I expose at ISO 400, and develop in D-76 according to the reccomended time. I have no problems; the film is sharp and has fine enough grain for me.
Tri-X pushes well, though not too high with D-76. I've gotten good results at ISO 800 to ISO 1000, but beyond that the shots don't look too good.
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