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  1. #11

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    Forte make three papers - two warm tone and a cold or neutral tone. Their neutral tone with a cold tone developer should do the trick for you. Also toning in selenium does not archive your prints unless you get a complete color change and this wiould defeat your intentions.

  2. #12
    reellis67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaiyen
    ...I just remembered that I happen to have a bottle of Clayton coldtone paper developer at home. Do neutral papers come out cold in them? Or do I need a coldtone paper to do that? What if I put a coldtone paper in the developer? will it come out frozen? ;-)...
    If I remember correctly, the really cold-tone papers of the past were due to cadmium(?), which is no longer inlcuded in modern papers due to environmental concerns. You can get cold-er blacks with cold tone developers though. Clayton makes one (ultra-cold I think) that I have a bottle of but have not had time to test. I have tested the Ilford cool-tone developer, but I would not call the results 'frozen'. Neutral papers should give you the feel you want when used with either of these developers, but the extent of blue-black tones depends on the paper's ability to react with the developer, so different papers will give different results.

    I use the Ilford cool-tone with MGIV FB paper and get a nice cool feel, again, not extremely cool-tone, but cooler than with other non-cooltone developers. Unfortunatley, the exact result is hard to describe and even harder (for me) to get on the computer. Perhaps someone can post some results that look like the real thing...

    - Randy

  3. #13
    kaiyen's Avatar
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    Great. Thanks. I think I got a good plan.

    allan

  4. #14

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    Give ethol lpd a try. It changes warmth by dilution, and I leave it in an open tray all weekend without any problems.
    art is about managing compromise

  5. #15

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    Agfa made a product called Sistan which helped prints achieve some permanence without the color change of toning. See if you can still find some. According to the msds the active ingredient was potassium thiocyanate 15-20%. It should be easy to make your own stock solution. 25 ml of this solution was diluted to 1 liter and prints were soaked in this before being dried. While not completely archival it is certainly better than nothing.

    I too hate toned prints.

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