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  1. #1
    jrong's Avatar
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    Neopan 400 - recommendations pls

    Apologies if this question has been asked before... I have some rolls of Fuji Neopan 400 in 35mm format shot in a variety of conditions. Souped it in HC-110 dil B for 5 mins as recommended on the Digitaltruth website, but have got rather yucky results.... the contrast is all over the place, and the tonality for a lot of the photos stink.

    I have Rodinal, HC-110 and Paterson FX-39 in my little darkroom chest. Could I do better?

    Jin

  2. #2

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    I use Rodinal 1:50 12min (20 degrees C) Agitate first 60secs and the 10sec every three min. I try to keep my times to at least 10 min, I don't feel comfortable with shorter times.
    Neopan 400 tend to be a little contrasty compared to other 400 films so it's a matter of taste. You can control the contrast by overeksposing/underdeveloping a bit if you want less contrast or "undereksposing"/overerdeveloping if you want more contrast. beware though when it comes to undereksposing since you may loose detail in shadows
    I find that the mentioned combination suits my taste and because I don't have to worry about shelf live of Rodinal it's the perfect developer for me
    Cheers Søren
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  3. #3

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    To be honest I think you have LOTS of options. Tonality is subjective and what I like you might not. I have shot a reasonable amount of Neopan 400 and found it very agreable in DDX 1+7. I have not got times etc as they are on a dektop in another country, but contrast was well controlled and very consistent. Rated at 400 I had loads of shadow detail as DDX gives at least box speed under avge light.

    Although I have not tried it I would expect FX39 to be good for this film as I think it is quite fluffy compared to HP5 or TriX, lacking the acutance. I have FX39 in my cupboard and with DDX 'in the bag' woul go to FX39 as my next trial. FX39 being designed for modern tech films also controls contrast so whoudl ensure things dont go too wild assuming you take reasonable precautions. It is also the sharpest dev I have used outside of pyro devs so results should be very crisp.

  4. #4
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    Not all good developers are well matched for all good films ( although NO film has ever been released that didn't perform well with D76. ) HC-110 can be troublesome with many films.

    FX-39 is extremely good for Neopan, although it introduces a shoulder .... probably high enough it won't trouble you. Aculux 2 is just brilliant, however.

    Rodinal is very nice as well, but different. DDX and Xtol are functionally interchangeable. But overall, for speed, fine grain, useful curve in both flat and contrasty light, Buy British... Aculux 2 is your best choice.
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

  5. #5

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    Give HC-110 another chance. Dilute 1:50 and develop for 1.5X the time for dilution B. The lower concentration produces better compensation and sharpness and allows for more control. At 5 minutes you are right at the shortest recommended time for consistant results. Perhaps that is causing your problems.

  6. #6

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    Yes I agree, Neopan 400 in Aculux2 is perfect. Rate the film at EI 250 and develop for 7.5 minutes at 20 degrees C with 10 seconds agitation per minute. Very low grain, good sharpness and wonderful tonality. It is my standard combination when I want reliable results.

  7. #7

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    Google onto "HC-110. The Unofficial Resource Page".

    You cut dilution B in half and double the time. Nice results.

    Mike

  8. #8
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrong
    Apologies if this question has been asked before... I have some rolls of Fuji Neopan 400 in 35mm format shot in a variety of conditions. Souped it in HC-110 dil B for 5 mins as recommended on the Digitaltruth website, but have got rather yucky results.... the contrast is all over the place, and the tonality for a lot of the photos stink.

    I have Rodinal, HC-110 and Paterson FX-39 in my little darkroom chest. Could I do better?

    Jin
    My standard is Rodinal 1:25 for 6.5min, with standard agitation. Never had a problem, and the grain is extremely fine.

  9. #9
    Brac's Avatar
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    I also endorse Paterson Aculux 2 for this film, though I kept to the manufacturer's rating of ISO 400. This gave punchy negatives which I prefer and found easy to print.

  10. #10
    mario Ag+'s Avatar
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    I would have to agree with Soeren about the Rodinal (1+50) combo. It really keeps this contrasty film under control. I also rate it at ISO 200 in contrasty sitiuations and develop for 10:30 mins. This does gives better shadow detail as one would expect.

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