Switch to English Language Passer en langue franšaise Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 75,192   Posts: 1,659,083   Online: 925
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18
  1. #11
    battra92's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    217
    Okay, I ran my first test with it today. I did 3ml to 300ml of water in a paterson tank agitating for 10 seconds every 3 minutes for 18 minutes total. The high dilution makes R09 cost less than 9 cents a roll. That's certainly a steal.

    I did do a three minute presoak with moderate agitation and new water every minute. I was initially only going to soak it for a minute as J&C reccomended but figured the three changes of water would be okay.

    And Lord was this film curly! I had a heck of a time getting it on the reel and I never have problems with my loyal TriX and Fomapan.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,670
    Quote Originally Posted by avandesande
    After rinsing let it sit in distilled water overnight and hang up to dry in the morning.
    Obviously you have not experienced any problems but I would be afraid of damage to the emulsion after a lengthy immersion in water.

  3. #13
    battra92's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    217
    For those curious, I have uploaded a scan here of one of the shots I did with the Efke 25. As reported, the red does come out black as is evidenced by the green and black poster that comes out near solid black.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,879
    Images
    11
    I just developed another 120 roll of Efke 25 in Sandy King's p-aminophenol version of Pyrocat. (The subject, African Violets) I presoaked for 3 minutes in deionized water, then I developed Semi-Stand for 16 minutes at 71F. No stop bath - 3 minute rinse in deionized water instead. Fixed for 10 minutes in Ryuji's ammonium thiosulfate fixer (APUG Chemical Recipes). Washed via the soak and dump method in deionized water. The negs (6cm x 7cm) look very good.
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  5. #15
    battra92's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson
    I just developed another 120 roll of Efke 25 in Sandy King's p-aminophenol version of Pyrocat. (The subject, African Violets) I presoaked for 3 minutes in deionized water, then I developed Semi-Stand for 16 minutes at 71F. No stop bath - 3 minute rinse in deionized water instead. Fixed for 10 minutes in Ryuji's ammonium thiosulfate fixer (APUG Chemical Recipes). Washed via the soak and dump method in deionized water. The negs (6cm x 7cm) look very good.
    When you say deionized water, what do you mean? I got a B+ in Chemistry but I'm not sure what that means.

    And do you feel that the water rinse is better than the acidic stop bath? I've always used a stop because I was told to when I first learned.

    By the way, I am so far in love with this film. It scans marvelously! (I know, a dirty word around here but it's my setup as of now)

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,879
    Images
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by battra92
    When you say deionized water, what do you mean? I got a B+ in Chemistry but I'm not sure what that means.
    By deionized water, I mean water that contains very few (or no) metal ions.

    I am fortunate to have two sources of deionized water in the lab that I use. We have a commercially supplied water filtration/ion exchange system that provides bulk deionized water to our lab.

    In addition, we have a Millipore filtration chain that takes the bulk deionized water as input and produces 18 Megaohm (i.e. semiconductor grade) deionized water from it. The electrical resistance of the water from the Millipore system is monitored (real-time) to insure that it meets the 18 Megaohm resistance criteria. Water with High Electrical Resistance = Water with low ionic content.

    You also wrote: "And do you feel that the water rinse is better than the acidic stop bath? I've always used a stop because I was told to when I first learned."

    I wouldn't say that plain (or deionized water) is better than an acidic stop bath. It simply isn't needed with the film developing and fixing process that I am using, (i.e. a highly diluted developer and an Ammonium Thiosulfate based fixer).
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  7. #17
    Pragmatist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Bath, NY
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    599
    Quote Originally Posted by battra92
    B+ in Chemistry but I'm not sure what that means.

    And do you feel that the water rinse is better than the acidic stop bath? I've always used a stop because I was told to when I first learned.
    Me too. I had a difficult time reconciling a water bath stop. But, experience with the thicker emulsion films have shown me that using a water bath can eliminate problems like pinholes. Occassionally I had a few issues with this and they stopped when I quit using an acid stop bath.
    Patrick

    something witty and profound needs to be inserted here...

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,879
    Images
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by battra92

    And do you feel that the water rinse is better than the acidic stop bath? I've always used a stop because I was told to when I first learned.
    In my previous response, I failed to explain that Pyrocat-HD (all versions) is a staining developer (this type of developer stains and tans the film emulsion proportional to the amount of exposure the silver image receives).

    In the process, a stain image is formed that complements the silver image.

    An acid stop bath can reduce the density of the image stain, so a water rinse is recommended instead of an acid stop bath.
    Tom Hoskinson
    ______________________________

    Everything is analog - even digital :D

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  Ś   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin