Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,834   Posts: 1,582,394   Online: 906
      
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 35
  1. #11
    Digidurst's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SC
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    629
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by antielectrons
    I use 5 changes of water in 1.5 mins, agitating 10 secs each.
    Ok - thanks for the clarification. Now I'm just curious to know, do you reduce your developing times in any way to compensate for the water's inability to freeze developing? At least, my understanding thru brief net readings here and there, is that film will continue to develop, albeit at a much diminished rate when water is used as a stop bath.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,670
    Forgive me for adding my 2 cents. The amount of development which occurs as the developer is being diluted by the water is insignificant. I use a single bath but continuously agitate the tank for 1 minute before replacing the water bath with fixer.

  3. #13
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    Ole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bergen, Norway
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    9,282
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    31
    One of my "perversions" is that sometimes I use no stop at all, nor "fixer".

    Instead I dump a cupful of 50% ammonium thiosulfate straight into the developer when I want to stop it.

    Within 10 seconds the film has been fixed enough that no further development can possibly take place.

    It works; but don't do it just because I said it works!
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  4. #14
    Digidurst's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SC
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    629
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald Koch
    Forgive me for adding my 2 cents. The amount of development which occurs as the developer is being diluted by the water is insignificant. I use a single bath but continuously agitate the tank for 1 minute before replacing the water bath with fixer.
    Hey - no forgiveness necessary! I'm just here to learn

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    205
    Hi, I pour the developer out 15 secs before the end of its time and let it drain. Then pour in the water.

    Quote Originally Posted by Digidurst
    Ok - thanks for the clarification. Now I'm just curious to know, do you reduce your developing times in any way to compensate for the water's inability to freeze developing? At least, my understanding thru brief net readings here and there, is that film will continue to develop, albeit at a much diminished rate when water is used as a stop bath.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Willamette Valley, Oregon
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Digidurst
    ... that film will continue to develop, albeit
    at a much diminished rate when water is
    used as a stop bath.
    I'll make the argument that water alone is the faster
    stop. The usual stop is 1 part acid and 49 parts water.
    The usual acid has a large molecule which moves slowly.
    Also it has what is called a short mean path.

    By contrast the H2O molecule is small, swift, and
    travels far. The little developer retained in an
    emulsion is very soon much diluted and
    neutralized.

    The reason for the recommended very short acid
    stop is to prepare the film or paper for the conventional
    acid fix. As others have posted, an acid stop should not
    precede an alkaline fix.

    As for now and then processing, 20ml of any concentrate
    in whatever solution volume needed will fix any roll of
    film. Keep your concentrate in small full bottles and
    it will last a long, long, time. Dan

  7. #17
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    Ole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bergen, Norway
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    9,282
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu
    ...
    The usual acid has a large molecule which moves slowly.
    Also it has what is called a short mean path.

    By contrast the H2O molecule is small, swift, and
    travels far. ...
    The working part of the acid is not the big heavy anion, but the small fast H3O+.

    Apart from that, I agree completely. My "standard singleshot film fix for tanks" is now three teaspoons of ammonium thiosulfate (anhydrous) dissolved in half a cupful of water. I just dump that in the tank when the developer has done its job - without pouring out the spent developer first.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole
    Apart from that, I agree completely. My "standard singleshot film fix for tanks" is now three teaspoons of ammonium thiosulfate (anhydrous) dissolved in half a cupful of water. I just dump that in the tank when the developer has done its job - without pouring out the spent developer first.
    Don't you get dichroic fog, or coarse grain with some developer/film this way? I think fine grain films are more prone to dichroic fog, and more active developer may make the image more coarse grained.

  9. #19
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    Ole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bergen, Norway
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    9,282
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    31
    So far, I have seen no ill effects of this. Developers have been Neofin, rodinal, FX-2, Beutler's, and Pyrocat-HD. I have seen the huge grain of monobath processing before (grain visible on a contact print!), but Rollei/Maco IR820/400 in Neofin with mmonium thiosulfate "tip-in-fixer" gave some of the tightest smoothest grain I have ever seen from a ISO 400 film.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    189
    Crystals!! Wow! Where do you get ammonium thiosulfate crystals. I see you're in Norway, they don't seem to be available in the States. When I buy it I have to pay to ship water around.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin