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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Greenville, SC
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    TF-3 is a good fixer that you can mix yourself.

    Also consider Ryuji's Non-Acid Fixing Bath, which I recommend highly because of the lower working pH compared to TF-3.

    Concentrated Stock

    800ml of 60% ammonium thiosulfate
    60g sodium sulfite
    20g sodium metabisulfite
    Water to make one liter
    Dilute 1:4 for working solution.

    Sandy

  2. #12
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Oct 2003
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    Kino, Sandy is too modest! Try his pyrocat-hd for your first trip into pyro and you will enjoy it. I started this suff a few years ago with PMK and got very good results, but it has a few down sides. You will have muddy shadows and spend a fair amount of time with the lights off while agitating every 15 seconds.

    With pyrocat you can use regular, minimat agitation or, for the truly lazy, stand development. No uneven staining and full shadow detail with great micro-contrast (yes, that is a real word to describe good shadows).

    Haven't tried the WD2D types, but I'm pleased with pyrocat. Would be my firsty try for developers if I had to start over. tim

    P.S. Enjoyed your brutal self appraisal of the shot in the gallery. Don't worry, you are doing well for LF, just hang tough and it will get better. A moaning chair in the corner with a dunce hat is what I use in my darkroom.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim appleyard
    Also in the "Cookbook" is a formula for an alkaline
    fixer made from sodium thio. Sod. thio comes in a
    crystal form and is cheaper to ship. It is slower than
    TF-3-4 and does not last as long.
    All off-the shelf-fixers and very nearly all of
    the Home-Brew formulas include ph modifiers and
    preservatives. All are one-size-fits-all formulations in
    that they can be in and out many times from the tank
    or tray and bottle. Due to their in-use concentration
    they can be loaded up with a lot of silver and
    the halides which tag along.

    That's the story of fixers. Then there's the story of
    the film and paper using those fixers. One more
    is the after math, washing that mix of
    fix and all all out. Dan

  4. #14

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    Jan 2006
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    Everyone, again, thank you for the wealth of advice!

    Noseoil; I too after reading Sandy's article, thought Pyrocat might be the better bet to start with and your recommendation caps it, so I will be changing directions toward using it and leaving the ABC and WD2D+ out of the mix until I get some more experience in the matter. Although, until I get my shooting process under control, it hardly matters...

    Thanks on the Gallery stuff; I know all too well about that dunce chair, unfortunately, and have added a hair-shirt for good measure! I have, however, a thick skull and am dogged if nothing else, so thanks for the encouragement! Maybe I can shoot something like you in the future (I hope).

    Sandy, thanks for the TF-3 formula and Jim for the info on TF-2. I checked out the Darkroom Cookbook from the library and will price out the raw chemistry to see what would work best for me.

    I know nothing about alkaline fixers, so this will be interesting.

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