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  1. #1
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    Barry Thorton developing prints in Neutol WA

    Hi All
    I just started using Agfa Neutol WA for Kentmere FB Bromide paper. I came across Barry's book "Edge of Darkness". Last couple of days I have been reading and I noticed every print he made in the book is developed with different dilutions of Neutol WA. What would be the purpose of diluting developer 1:9 or 1:12 or 1:14?

    Just curious Greg
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6

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    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I found when I used it more regularly that a stronger concentration produced more contrast. 1+7 usually worked best for me, but if you had a contrasty negative, you might think of saving it to the end of your printing session and diluting to 1+13 or so to see if you could get a better print.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buster6X6
    Hi All
    I just started using Agfa Neutol WA for Kentmere FB Bromide paper. I came across Barry's book "Edge of Darkness". Last couple of days I have been reading and I noticed every print he made in the book is developed with different dilutions of Neutol WA. What would be the purpose of diluting developer 1:9 or 1:12 or 1:14?

    Just curious Greg
    Changing dilution changes the warmth,at least with MCC. Warming it 4 degrees gives yet more warmth. I don't think Bromide will warm much but Kentona is very nice in it
    Mark
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  4. #4
    JLP
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    Speaking of Kentmere, i recently received a box of Kentona and like it a lot but the emulsion is extremely delicate. Have developed in both Neutol WA and ZonalPro warmtone and in both cases have ruined all except one print trying to dry it on a Premier dryer at low setting.

    Is that a characteristic for Kenmere paper?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by JLP
    Speaking of Kentmere, i recently received a box of Kentona and like it a lot but the emulsion is extremely delicate. Have developed in both Neutol WA and ZonalPro warmtone and in both cases have ruined all except one print trying to dry it on a Premier dryer at low setting.

    Is that a characteristic for Kenmere paper?
    I don't use a dryer.
    Have found that a brief dip in selenium toner neutralizes the green cast beautifully.
    Mark
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  6. #6
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    Thanks Mark
    I have not done any extensive testing with this paper but initial paper tests with step wedge have a great tone values with rich blacks.I have to do some printing with the negatives to see what this paper can do.What is the best way to dry this paper because it curls a lot?

    Cheers Greg
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6

  7. #7
    mikeg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLP
    Speaking of Kentmere, i recently received a box of Kentona and like it a lot but the emulsion is extremely delicate. Have developed in both Neutol WA and ZonalPro warmtone and in both cases have ruined all except one print trying to dry it on a Premier dryer at low setting.

    Is that a characteristic for Kenmere paper?
    I don't use a dryer, I air dry my prints. But, Kentona is very delicate. I've found that you have to be very careful when using tongs that you don't mark the surface. The other Kentmere papers seem a bit more robust.

    Mike

  8. #8
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    Could you use small plastic clips with lead weights on each bottom corner to air dry the prints so they stay straight? Or is it a bad idea?

    Greg
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6



 

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